Easier stockinette grafting is one of the most popular articles on TECHknitting blog. It is "easier" for knitters because it is done with a knitting needle and uses real knitting stitches. The sewing needle can stay in the cross-stitch kit where it belongs. This trick exactly mimics a knit row.
Since it first came out, I've had sporadic requests for a purl version. So, that's today's post: easier grafting, part 2, a version which exactly mimics a purl row.
Knit vs. Purl Grafting
Knit grafting
Grafting or "weaving" together two flat fabrics seamlessly connects the live stitches on each (although it can also graft live stitches to bound off ones). It is worked with a cut piece of yarn which travels in and out of the live stitches, following the exact line a knit row would take. It is sometimes named "Kitchener stitching"after Lord Kitchener, a British general worried about his soldier's feet. The socks of the time featured rough toe seams, so those knitting for the troops were encouraged to learn this new "seamless seam." Ever since, this has been a popular way to make a smooth toe.
The original makes a smooth row of knitting, but today's graft makes a purl row--not at all the thing for sock toes!
Purl grafting
Purl grafting connects the live stitches of two flat fabrics via a raised and decorative purl row. This would match in texture to fabrics featuring purl rows, perhaps a scarf featuring welts, and worked both ways towards the middle.
Another use: purl rows on a stockinette (knit) background want to make a fold line. So, purl grafting would make a decorative folded edge, such as to attach a collar-facing knit separately, or as a decorative edge to close a tubular bind off, or at the top of a double knitting project.
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| "...a decorative folded edge, such as at the top of a double knitting project..." |
One last thing before the how-to. Today's method makes a purl row against a background of smooth knit stockinette. Why on stockinette? Because there is no reason to write instructions for grafting two purl fabrics together in purl. To graft purl to purl, flip the fabrics to their smooth knit sides, work a stockinette graft and flip again: the fabric would now show a purl graft on a purl background.
Purl grafting with a knitting needle and a cut length of yarn
Grafting with a knitting needle is halfway between knitting and sewing. Like knitting, it uses real knitting stitches (knit and purl) worked with a knitting needle, but like sewing, is done with a cut length of yarn. In other words, although grafting uses knitting motions, it is not actually knitting, where loops are pulled through other loops. Instead, after each "stitch," grafting actually pulls the yarn all the way through until the cut end pops loose, more like sewing.
The set up for purl grafting is the same as for stockinette.
All the front stitches are one needle, all the back stitches on another. The fabrics are held back to back, meaning, the purl (reverse stockinette) fabric faces are inside, while both outsides are the smooth stockinette faces, with their v-shaped knit stitches. If you have been working double knitting via the alternate-stitch "classic" method, or tubular bind off on one needle, you must separate the front and back fabrics, each onto its own needle to set up for this trick (link has illustrated instructions).
The running yarn comes from the right side of the back fabric. It is cut to length and is now called the working yarn--red below. The length to cut the yarn is 4 times the width of the fabric to be grafted. The stitches of both fabric on their needles are held in the left hand, and a small thin knitting needle is held in the right hand, ready to pull the working yarn through the loops. This is the working needle. For those working mirror-image (sometimes called "left handed knitting") right and left are reversed.
Step one: "Purl and take it off"
Wrap (bring) the working yarn around to the front of the work. The working yarn passes UNDER all needles, both left and right. Insert the right working needle into the first stitch (green) on the left front needle, and use the working yarn to PURL this first stitch. Draw the working yarn backwards (away from you) all the way through this stitch until the end of the working yarn pops free. The loose end of the working yarn (red) will now be in the area between the left needles. The stitch (green) which you were working is now fully bound off. Push this stitch off the left front needle.
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| "Purl and take it off." The right working needle purls the first stitch on the front needle (green) then pulls the working yarn (red) though the stitch until the end pops loose. Note the path of the working (red) yarn: it travels UNDER all needles. After being worked, the green stitch is pushed off the needle. |
Step two: "Knit and leave it on"
After step 1, the working yarn is in the area between the left front and left rear needles. Insert the right working needle into the next stitch (purple)--which was the second stitch on the left front needle. Use the working yarn to KNIT this stitch. Draw the working yarn forward (towards you) all the way through this stitch until the end of the working yarn pops free of the stitch. The loose end of the working yarn (red) will now be in the front of the work. The stitch (purple) you were working on is only half bound off--you must leave this stitch on the left front needle.
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| "Knit and leave it on." The right working needle knits the next stitch on the front needle (purple) then pulls through the red working yarn til the end pops loose. The purple stitch is retained on the needle. |
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| "Purl and take it off." The right working needle purls the first stitch on the back needle (yellow) then pulls the working yarn (red) though the stitch until the end pops loose. The yellow stitch is pushed off the needle. Note the path of the (red) working yarn: it goes UNDER the front needle on its way to the yellow stitch. |
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| "Knit and leave it on." The right working needle knits the next stitch on the back needle (bright blue) then pulls through the red working yarn til the end pops loose. The stitch is retained on the needle.This is the last stitch of the cycle, which then begins again with step 1. |
Mantra
FRONT NEEDLE: As if to purl and take it off
As if to knit and leave it on
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BACK NEEDLE: As if to purl and take it off
As if to knit and leave it on
Speed, tension and appearance
Each step creates one-quarter of a purl stitch. So, even if you could work this as fast as actual purling (which you can't) it would still take four times as long. Forewarned is forearmed: leave plenty of time.
There is no knitting needle around which to form your stitch. Without a needle in the way, yanking will over-tighten the loops. Therefore, when pulling yarn through, be mild in your tension adjustment.
Today's trick has a pretty appearance, both front and back, a "purled" string of "pearls" along the grafted edge.
--TK
PS: If you like the look of that blue and white double knit sample, stay tuned. The next batch of posts on TECHknitting blog will be all about double knitting. See you then!
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