A pinstriped hat--basic and with variations
|Both sides of the basic pinstriped hat, worked in a color wheel progression. The pinstripes are worked in Paternayan embroidery wool.|
|Variations on the basic hat: two color pinstripes and a brim with horizontal decoration. The pinstripes and decoration are worked with sock yarn scraps.|
(Variations, including the brimmed version, are at the end of the pattern)
- yellow green 692,
- yellow 761,
- light orange 813,
- dark orange 820,
- red 941,
- red violet 352,
- violet 300,
- purple 331,
- blue violet 340,
- blue 551,
- blue-green 686,
- applied in the seam, between the blue green and the yellow green, the last color is plain green 706.
Rows 1, 3, and 5 purl. Rows 2 and 4, knit.
Row 6 and 8: purl, row 7: knit.
Row 9: purl.
These rows complete the double reverse-stockinette edging at hat bottom.
Row 1: knit 8 sts, place marker, p1, place marker *Knit 7 sts, place maker, p1, place marker. Repeat from * 10 times, 11 sets of markers placed. (There will be 12 total pinstripes, but since one is worked up the "valley"of the seam, only 11 pinstripes are worked as-you-go.) End row by knitting 8.
Row 3: knit all stitches, except purl the stitches between the markers. Repeat rows 2 and 3 until a total of height of the hat is 6", end by working a purl row. This height will make a rather short hat, designed to be worn with the edging "straight" (not flipped up, no brim). Optional:
Before you decide for sure on the length of your hat, take a look at the end of the pattern for possible variations on the brim. If you do decide to knit the hat longer, this is the point that you would knit more rows.
Decrease row 3: knit all sts, except purl the sts between the markers.
[note: there are LOTS of different kinds of p2tog's. The kind to use in this pattern is worked as follows: insert R needle under the forward (right) arm of the next two sts on the needle and purl these sts together from this position]
Decrease row 6: purl all sts, except k the sts between markers.
Next row: k1, *reposition next st on L needle so it lays left arm forward. K2tog tbl, slip marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of row, k. there remain 25 sts on needle.
Next row (as you work this row, remove the markers) P2, then *k1, p1* to end of row, ending with a p2.
last row: k1, *reposition next st on L needle so it lays left arm forward. K2tog tbl, repeat from * until 2 sts remain at the end of the row, k2, there remain 14 sts on needle. Place these sts on a holder.
Block: Block hat. Steam blocking works well. If making brimmed version (see variations, below) block the brim up at the fold line.
Starting a pinstripe with a doubled strand Working with a doubled strand eliminates a tail at the bottom of the hat Following the diagram below, hold the bottom loop of the doubled yarn at the very bottom of the pinstripe, and draw it through as the first loop. Consider this loop over your hook-barrel as the first loop of the pinstripe.
|Slip stitching shut the hat seam|
|The slip-stitched seam pulled open, showing the "cross bars" of the slip stitches|
|The middle pinstripe is in the seam. I tugged the bottom border into a little point to make obvious the seam location.|
Below is what a Kitchener-stitched closed top looks like before the pom-pom is attached. (This is a variation hat, but the top is identical to the basic hat.)
Make a pom-pom in the same color as the hat. Pom-poms can be made large (as the brimmed hat in this post) or smaller (as the basic hat in this post). (Geek note: pom-poms getting ratty through wear can be made to look new again via a "hair cut." Larger pom-poms obviously yield more opportunities for this trick.) Attach the pom-pom on top via the two long main-color tails you reserved inside the hat, then trim these to length.
Decorate the pom-pom AND get rid of the contrast color ends as follows: With each set of color-ends, thread them onto a sharp needle and run each through the hat top and then into the pom-pom, then trim to match the pom-pom strand lengths. Repeat with all the other color-ends. Work in any other stray ends (such as from the grafting) in this same manner. The contrast color ends yield a very pretty effect, as you can see below.
|Top view of color-wheel hat: the ends of the pinstripes have been threaded onto a needle, then run through the hat top, into the pom-pom and trimmed to length. Therefore, there is no need to work the many pinstripe-ends into the fabric|
Create more or fewer pinstripes: add or remove purled columns, evenly spaced (or not!) It is fair game to alter the stitch count slightly, to accommodate. If you're alternating solid color pinstripes, like for a team-color hat, make sure two same-color stripes won't accidentally wind up next to one another. The hat top shaping assumes 11 evenly spaced purl columns, plus a "purl column equivalent" to be created via the seam, so if you have any other arrangement, consider stopping the pinstripes before the hat-top decreases, and eliminating the purl columns at that point, also.
Looser hat: The basic pattern makes a short, rather tightly-fitted hat. If you prefer a looser hat, either knit at a looser gauge or add more stitches. If adding stitches, distribute them evenly in the areas between the markers as well as before the first marker and after the last marker. This is because the hat is knit flat and stitch count as given is designed to allow two stitches to be consumed in the seam. These two stitches will become as "one purl column" once the slip-stitch seam is created, and the valley of the seam is where you work the last pinstripe. In this manner, the areas before first marker and after the last marker end up being identical to the areas between the markers. Remember, also, that you must work additional decreases at the hat top to get rid of any added stitches.
|The bottom border is in two sections, the FLB peeks out between them|
Left: Worn with a straight (unflipped) bottom edge, the hat features a double reverse-stockinette edging. Right: If worn with the edging flipped up, the reverse of pinstripes shows.
Below are instructions for working a brimmed variation on the basic hat. This particular version of the hat also varies in the nature of the pinstripes: these are worked in two colors.
For a "real" brim, where the flipped-up brim has the "right side showing" just like body of the hat does, you cast on as for the bsic hat, then knit the brim to the height you want. The brimmed hat shown in this post has a 3" brim, measured from the curl-over of the bottom border to the fold line.
row 2: p1, k1, *p5, k1, slip marker p1, slip marker k1, repeat from * to within 2 sts of end of row, k1, P1.
row 3: p all sts except the k sts between the markers.
row 4: k all sts except the p sts between the markers
row 5: repeat row 3
row 6: repeat row 4
row 7 (Releases the internal tension of the fabric so the hat lays smooth behind the brim): k1, p1 across the row. (Reality check: the sts between the markers remain in knit.)
row 8 k1, p1 across the row. (Reality check: the sts between the markers switch to being knit sts.)
row 9: the fabric reverses at this point--k all sts except p the sts between the markers (The reason the fabric reverses so far past the fold line is so that the "back" of the fabric never will show around your face--have a look at the third photo below.)
row 10: p all sts, except k the sts between the markers.
Repeat rows 9 and ten until hat is the height you want, as measured from the first fold row. Return to the basic hat pattern for the shaping of the hat top. When you finish knitting, block the hat with the brim folded up, as shown below.
|The brimmed variation blocked with the brim up|
|This brimmed version of the hat has lots of ends (especially since it was worked in a two-color pinstripe) but the brim provides a place to hide them. As with the basic version, the reserved ends at the top will be worked into the pom pom.|
PS: About the different font sizes: Try as I might, I can't get the type sizes to even out, in the main text body so...sorry about all the distracting variation.
** I've test-knit this pattern several times--the two you see here plus several earlier variations. Buuuut--if I made an error in the pattern, well...I know what I MEANT to say, and might have glossed over it. So, if you knit this and find an error in the pattern, I'd appreciate you letting me know right away. In thanks, I will send you, as a gift, a link to any published TECHknitting pattern on Ravelry.