Center-pull balls of yarn, wound up by hand

Scrap amounts, or a whole skein: any reasonable amount of yarn can be hand-wound into neat and tidy center-pull balls. There's a video, followed by the non-video illustrated version. 

Video

If the video does not load for you, here's the direct link to the You-Tube URL 

If the subtitles are in your way, pull them to the screen top, and by all means, skip the ads--they are annoying as heck. 

Here is the non-video illustrated explanation.

Begin by laying the yarn tail between the first two fingers of your non-dominant hand (left hand in the illustration). This tail will become the center-pull. 

Lay the tail between your first two fingers. This will become the center-pull

Now trap down the tail with your thumb, then wrap the yarn over your fingers 10 times to form a (very) mini hank.

Mini-hank wound over first two fingers

Once you have ten loops over your fingers, slip this mini-hank off your fingers, pinch it up and wind more yarn over its middle, meaning at 90 degrees to the direction of the original wind.

Wind over the middle

For a small ball, the last two steps are these

    -- As you come to the last wrap, lay a forefinger alongside the winding, then wind the very last wrap over it, as shown below. Then, pull up tightly. 

    -- Insert the tail-end UNDER the last wrap, in the direction from your forefinger towards the palm of you hand, meaning inserting towards the center-pull:  red arrow  in illustration above. If you've done this last part correctly, the entire scrap of yarn will unwind from the center pull without a knot in its tail. Inserted the other way (from palm towards finger) will leave a small granny-knot in the tail. Give a final gentle tug to seat the tail and there's your tiny center-pull ball. This is a very convenient, very quick way of organizing scraps. 

For the larger ball version,  keep winding over the center mini-hank maybe 20 or 25 times, until you have a good mass into which you can sink a "claw" consisting of your thumb and middle finger, as shown.

In the upcoming action, each of the fingers on your non-dominant hand gets a different role. 

--The claw of thumb and middle-finger is the axis around which the ball will rotate. Where these fingers are, the top and bottom ball-eyes will form.

--The forefinger  provides  rotation  by a ratcheting action, meaning it will rotate the ball towards the palm  (red arrow)  one small step after each wrap: "to ratchet" means to "proceed by steps or degrees." 

--The last two fingers hold down the center-pull against the palm so it does not get lost.  

The action is this: the dominant hand winds the yarn over the top of the ball, first bringing the yarn towards you, then away over the top of the ball, around the back, and so up from the bottom again. In the illustration below, the yarn has been passed over the top of the ball, is now around the back, and will shortly be drawn forward again, up from the bottom, and so over the thumb. In this way, every wrap slightly overlaps the thumb. 

As the ball is rotated by the forefinger, the yarn slides off the thumbnail in the direction of the green arrow. If each rotation is equal, the yarn slides off at even intervals: this is how the very pretty and regular pattern of yarn is laid down. The yarn is also wrapped slightly overlapping the middle finger as it passes around the back of the ball, and the same slide-off occurs at each ratchet-step. 

 As to just HOW the forefinger provides rotation, in the illustration below A and B are both your forefinger, just in different places. When the forefinger is in the A position, it is just about to plunge into the ball. As soon as the wrap goes by, the forefinger does plunge into the ball. Then, still plunged, it is drawn towards the palm, into the B position (solid blue arrow). This make the ball rotate one small step around the "claw" axis of your thumb and middle finger. In the illustration, the forefinger in its B position has just completed the rotation and is being lifted out of the ball.

After each little rotation, the forefinger is raised and put back into the A position (blue d-o-t-t-e-d arrow), waiting above the ball for another wrap to go by. With each wrap, the forefinger again plunges into the ball and draws the ball towards the palm into the B position. It is in this sense that the forefinger is "ratcheting" the ball. In other words, it is the repeated sinking, drawing and lifting action which rotates the ball by a small degree each wrap, and so each trip of the forefinger from A to B is a "ratchet step." 

If you find this confusing, then, even if you HATE videos, consider watching just the "wrap-and-ratchet" action of the video at the top of this post. That specific action starts at 2:37 (2 minutes and 37 seconds) into the video.

If you are wrapping and ratcheting with your thumb and middle finger "claw" always in the same place, deep eyes would form at each finger, and the ball would start to become egg-shaped. The steeper the egg, the more yarn would try to fall off the sides. So, when you start approaching egg shape, you have to stop wrapping and change position. Simply sink your thumb and middle finger "claw" into the ball in a new place, and then start wrapping and ratcheting in this new position. 

You may wonder what happens to the center-pull when you wind over it, and the answer is, nothing happens. As long as you give the center pull yarn a tug every so often to keep it at the correct length, and as long as you don't lose track of it, the center-pull yarn will travel along the inside the ball from the old eye to the new eye, and appear there. When you first go to tug on a center-pull ball which has been wound using many changes of direction, the center pull may be stubborn. Have faith! Insist! Keep tugging and the stubbornness will subside. After these first few tight tugs, the center-pull will have created a straighter path from the heart of the ball where it originates, to pull more easily outward.

Three last thoughts.

First, just because the ball is capable of being center-pulled does not mean you have to use it that way. In fact, center-pulling may introduce unwanted twist. For more info, there's a whole TECHknitting post about that, but the short version is, you may want to unwind from the outside of the ball to prevent biasing. If you for sure are going to unwind from the outside, you can wind the ball just as shown here, but without keeping track of the center-pull.

Outside-unwinding is conveniently done either via a yarn lazy-suzan* (either commercial or home-made) or a yarn bowl or similar container. If outside-unwinding a center-pull ball, tuck the center-pull into the eye of the ball, having first knotted-on a scrap of contrast color yarn so you can find it again.

And finally, we are winding yarn here, not the innards of a baseball. Keep the tension of winding as loose as you can: tight enough so the yarn doesn't fall off in every direction, but no tighter. Tight winding stretches the yarn now and leads to problems later--uneven gauge, garments which shrink mysteriously the first time they are wetted and even yarn which offers to come apart. Loose is the watchword when winding yarn into balls! 

--TK

* Geek note: if you know ahead of time you'll be using a lazy-susan with a spike, you'll have to re-mount the ball at every place you changed direction of winding, because the placement of the eyes has changed. Therefore, you may choose to change direction of winding less often than if you were unwinding via yarn-bowl.

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Previously published posts about yarn handling

Yarn organization for color knitting

Quickly unkinking yarn with a steam iron (video)

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Questions or feedback? Talk to me about this post on Ravelry's TECHknitting forum

Lanyard cast-on and lanyard-cast off IRL + Matching deco-band Baby sweater+hat

 Lanyard cast-on and cast-off how-to was the last post, and here it is in real life on a side-to-side baby sweater. Bonus: a matching deco-band

...plus a little hat

Along the edges are the lanyard cast-on and cast-off. 
The deco band echos the lanyard pattern but is worked in the fabric interior.

This little garment is knit in washable worsted-weight yarn. It is adapted from a baby sweater by Claudia Olson. Originally designed in fingering weight, this adaptation is knit with worsted-weight yarn and greater ease. The bottom border and neck in the original are eliminated: the adaptation adds these in afterward. 

To be clear, the pattern is not offered here: it is on Ravelry (free download) as side-to-side baby sweater.  This post shows adaptations for where and how to work the lanyard cast on, lanyard cast off and deco band, to add color and detail along bands of all kinds: bottom, top, neck, front and brim.

Add color and detail to bands of all kinds

* * *

There are seven sections to the sample garment. The diagram is not to scale. 

Worked left cuff to right cuff, click here to enlarge

1. left sleeve    2. left shoulder    3. left front    4: back

5: right front    6: right shoulder    7: right sleeve

Section 1: left sleeve

The baby sweater starts with a lanyard cast-on along the left sleeve-cuff. 

Geek note: this is the only lanyard cast-on of the entire sweater. Due to the side-to-side construction and adaptations, all the other exposed edges are worked as a lanyard cast-off. More discussion at tension, below. 

The lanyard along this cuff is an s-mounted 3-strand lanyard.

•  Illustrated directions for cord here 
• Video of "s" mount here 
• Cast-on directions here 

The 3-stranded lanyard was worked in three colors:   pink ,  green , and  blue , in that order. Used as a cast on, a lanyard made like this doesn't really show the (pink) first color. What shows is a three-layer stripe where a filling of (green) second color purls appears between upper and lower layers of the (blue) third color: blue sandwich stuffed with green purls.

...blue sandwich stuffed with green purls, schematic...

Here is the lanyard in use as a cast-on IRL. By picking up the pink bumps on a slim dpn, nearly all that color is pulled out of the lanyard to be transformed into the live (pink) stitches. What's left behind is that blue sandwich stuffed with green purls--the second color layered inside the third, shown hanging below the needle in the photo below.

...blue sandwich stuffed with green purls, IRL.
The pink has been pulled up into the live stitches and hardly shows in the blue and green cast-on hanging below the needle.

Above this cast on, a K1, P1 ribbing was worked on the live stitches for several rows, without any additional shaping. 

Next up, the deco band.

Deco band pattern

For decoration, the deco band creates a stitch pattern very similar in appearance to the lanyard cast-on and -off. The deco band is worked with the same colors as for the lanyard edging, but differs in two ways.

First, the deco band is not a lanyard at all: it is just rounds of ordinary knitting. 

Second, The deco-band colors are not worked in the same order as the lanyard. 

   --The lanyard is worked in three colors, which are first=A (pink), second = B (green), third = C (blue), e.g.: A, B, C.

--However, the deco band is worked in color A (pink), then color C (blue) then color B (green) and then color C again (blue), e.g.: A, C, B, C.

...very similar in appearance

(Right: lanyard, left: deco band)

Worked FLAT on a stockinette or ribbed background (as for this sweater), and worked on DPNs or a circular needle. 

• Leading up to deco-band, work a last row in the main color on the back fabric face (here, the last row was in ribbing, and main color, A =  pink ). Turn work to front fabric face. Pink running yarn is now at right edge of work. Drop this yarn: it is to wait here for several rows.
• Begin deco band...
• Row 1 (front): Knit one row of the color C, (here,  blue ). Blue running yarn is now at left edge of work as seen from front fabric face. 
• Row 2 (front): Slide stitches to left tip of DPN. Knit one row of the color B (here,  green ). The running yarn of this color is now at the left edge of the work. It may be trimmed to a two or three inch tail to be worked in later, it will not be used again. Turn work.
• Row 3 (back): KNIT one row color C,  (here,  blue ). Turn work. The running yarn of this color is now at the right edge of the work as seen from the front fabric face. It may be trimmed to a two- or three inch end now to be worked in later, it will not be used again. 
• ...deco band is now finished.
• To continue work, (front) the running yarn of the main color A, (here,  pink )  has been waiting at the right edge of the work as viewed from the front fabric face. Using this yarn, return to stockinette by knitting a row in this color. 

Geek note. Row 2 (green), is knit but comes out purled. Wonder why you don't just purl row 2? The short answer is that row 3 bumps out the stitches in row 2 to become purls. The long answer is in this post about mysteries of knitting.

Again, the sleeves on this garment are worked flat. But later in this garment, the deco-band will be worked in the round, so here are those directions.

To work deco-band IN THE ROUND, then, starting on the front face of a knitted fabric:

• In ribbing or stockinette or whatever your fabric pattern is, knit up to where band is wanted, using first color (main color A, here,  pink ).
• Begin deco band...
• Round 1: knit one round in color C (here,  blue )
• Round 2: knit one round in color B here,  green ). At end of round, this yarn may be trimmed to a two or three inch tail to work in latter, it will not be used again. 
• Round 3: purl one round in color C (here,  blue ). At end of round, this yarn may be trimmed to a two or three inch tail to work in latter, it will not be used again.
• ...deco band is now finished
• Return to fabric pattern in color (main color A, here,  pink ).

On the little sample sweater, the sleeve deco band was knit flat. To reduce the number of ends to be worked in, the two contrast colors (green and blue) were carried up the side from the cast-on to the deco band. 

After knitting the deco band, the knitting continues until the sleeve is approximately 3 ½" long in total, working increases at stated intervals along the arm. 

Geek note. As it turns out, the rate of increase and decrease is pretty much the same regardless of yarn weight. This applies not only to the arm increase, but also to the arm decrease, plus both sides of the neck shaping. This means you can read the rate of shaping (but not the stitch count!) right off the base pattern, even if knit in heavier yarn. 

Section 2: Left shoulder

When the sleeve is approx. 3 ½" long, the sides are cast on, approximately 5" of length on either side, which you can calculate from your own stitch gauge.  I used the trick of casting on 2/3 of the required stitches as backwards loops, then making up to the required number of stitches on the return trip by making additional loops out of the slack. 

Putting a marker in the last row before casting on the second set of stitches allows for easy row-counting when the time comes to match right sleeve to left. The easiest marker: place a three- or four-inch strand of contrast color (cc) yarn in the space between any two stitches. *Knit a few stitches in the ordinary way, then flip the cc yarn to the opposite fabric face, again slotting it into the space between two stitches. Repeat from * until the entire strand is interwoven. This kind of row-marker easily pulls right out of the work when the time comes.

Geek note: These cast on stitches, together with the sleeve side-edges make the A-B left side seam per assembly diagram below. 

Section 3: left front

The stitches for the back  (½ the total) are put on a holder and the left front knitted with the neck decrease worked as per the pattern. Stop when the front is approximately 2 inches wide. 

Again, you may wish to put a marker in the last row before the neck decrease begins, to allow for accurate row-counting when you come to match the right front to the left. 

When the left front if finished, those stitches are put on a holder.

Section 4: back

The back stitches, previously placed on a holder, are strung back onto the needles, and the back is worked until approximately 4 ½ inches have been added. The stitches are again put on a holder. 

Geek note. If you happened to have TWO circular needles in the same gauge, you could switch between them as holders, saving having to restring the stitches as the back stitches are set aside and then re-activated, again set aside, again re-activated.

Section 5: Right front

The stitches for the right front are cast on provisionally--COWYAK is an easy method for this. The number to cast on is identical to the number put on a holder back in section 3, left front. The rate of neck INcrease is also the same as was the rate of DEcrease for the neck in section 3, and again, that is on the pattern. 

After the right front is knitted for the same number of rows as was the left, then on the last purl row, simply continue up the stitches reserved for the back. This joins the previously free-standing right front onto the rest of the sweater. All the stitches are now live. Again, if you place a row-marker on the joining row, matching the upcoming right shoulder to the already-knit left shoulder will be easier. 

Section 6: Right shoulder

With the right front shoulder stitches joined to the back, it is time to work the right shoulder. There isn't much to this, simply knit back and forth until for the same number of rows as for the left shoulder.  When the row-counts match, cast OFF for the side-seams the same number of stitches as were cast ON for the side seams back in section 2. The stitches centered between these two cast-off edges are the sleeve stitches, waiting to knit section 7.

Geek note: These cast on stitches, together with the right sleeve side-edges coming up next make the C-D right side seam per assembly diagram. 

Section 7: Right sleeve

Match the rate of DEcrease for this sleeve to the rate at which the left sleeve was INcreased in section 1. When you reach the same row count as for the right sleeve, and the same stitch count at the cuff (which points, hopefully, coincide) it is time to work another deco-band, again following the "worked flat" directions, above. This time, however, when working the deco-band, I didn't cut the running yarns, instead letting them dangle for the next few rows as I worked the ribbing between the deco-band and the cast off.

The right sleeve ends with a lanyard cast off. This is worked as shown here, with the exception that the cast on begins by placing the first (pink, color A) stitch on a crochet hook, and then drawing a green loop (color B)  through the pink. This is followed by a blue loop (color C), and then back to a pink from the DPN. You may wish to work the last row before the cast-off with smaller needles. 

Assembling the sweater

Fold back over front, per orange arrow. 

Top:Seams A and B are the sleeve-edges and cast-on edges from sections 1 and 2. Seams C and D are the cast-off edges and sleeve edges from sections 6 and 7. The fold line runs across the middle of the shoulder sections, even with the back neck edge of section 4.

To assemble, follow the orange arrow, to flip back over front at the fold line. This turns the sweater inside out, with smooth front-fabric-face touching one another, while the bumpy purl back-fabric-face is on the outside

Bottom: A is seamed to B, then C to D. This sews the arms shut and makes the side seams also. 

In this position, 

• the fold lines are at the top of the garment, and the garment is inside out. 
• Thus, the FRONT FABRIC faces are together, the purl fabric is facing out and the smooth knit face of the fabric is on the inside. 

Using any method at all, edge A is sewn to edge B, then edge C to edge D. This puts the seams to the inside. After sewing, turn the garment right side out.  

Rate of pick up and marker placement

The next step is that a deco-band is worked around all remains exposed garment edges except for the cuffs--the cuffs were already worked as-you-go. Set up for this process by removing the provisional cast-on along the right front, putting the resulting live stitches on a holder. 

The deco band requires live stitches, which means using a long circular needle (at least 24" if not longer) to pick up stitches around the entire opening. 

Here is a whole post on picking up stitches along a selvedge, with several how-to's. 

The RATE of pick up around the bottom, neck increase and decrease, and neck back (outlined in green) is THREE stitches picked up for each TWO row ends. The remaining stitches along the fronts (outlined in  purple ) are simply slipped from their holders onto the needle as you come to them. As you slip and pick up, place 6 markers as shown by  red dots  on the diagram below: one marker outside each last bottom stitch, one marker outside each bottom-front stitch, and one marker outside the lowest neck stitches both sides. These locate where mitered increases will be made in the deco-band, ribbing, and lanyard cast-off.

Once all the stitches are picked up, work an additional round of stockinette stitch in the main color.

Working around a corner without providing an increase would cause the corners to flip up into half-moons. Therefore, on the two bottom corners, on every second round, when the knitting comes to the markers, an increase is worked outside each marker. This means that the markers always enclose the two corner stitches, and are flanked on the outside by the increases: exactly like working the increase along a raglan line. To get matching slants, here is a post about increases which slant in opposite directions--use one on each side of marker. 

At the neck edge, there is only a single increase, again, you can make these slant as you wish by following the directions for slanting increases in this post, and again, the rate of increase is one stitch on the NECK side of the marker, every second round. 

To be clear: there are six increases on every second round knit, two at each of the two bottom corners, one at each neck edge. 

Deco band worked in the round

After the second round of the main color, it is time to begin the deco-band. This time, the band is worked according to the "in the round" instructions, above. 

* * *

Geek note: avoid lots of ends all in the same place. Recollect that there are going to be ends to work in where the contrast color yarns of the deco-band begin and end. When working flat, as on the sleeves, there's not a lot you can do about this. However, when working in the round, as on the bands of this sweater, there are more opportunities to avoid many ends in one place. The trick is to slip along the round until some distance down the line from where any previous yarn has ended, then starting the next round of knitting there. In other words, the first round of the deco-band (here, blue) need not start at the same place last round of main color (here, pink) ended. 

You can go further with the trick of slipping also: the second round of the deco-band (second contrast color (here, green) need not start where the first (blue) one did. You can again slip to some other place and start that (green) round.  One the third round of the deco-band, when returning to the first contrast color (blue), again slip back to where that running yarn is dangling. 

Finally, after both colors of the deco band are knit, slip back to where the main color (pink) running yarn was left dangling.

By the trick of all this slipping around, only 2 ends ever need be worked in close together. 

* * *

Geek note: avoid jogs in the deco-band. To avoid jogs, overlap the first and last two stitches of the each round of the deco band as shown in this post on smoothing rounds. This makes each of the three deco-band rounds into a complete circle, instead of stacked spirals which jog. (And yes, you can work this trick AND the slipping trick!)

* * *

Ribbing, buttonholes

The deco-band is followed by ribbing for the same number of rounds as were worked between the deco-band and the lanyard edging on the cuffs. Again, the ribbing must be mitered at the 6 markers to prevent the corners from rounding and flipping up.

As you work the front bands, make button holes on one side, centered between the ribbing rounds. My go-to is the tulips buttonhole (here, worked over three stitches) but any kind of buttonhole (including the simplest, sheepseye) will work. The sample has five buttonholes. As to spacing, recollect that after making the buttonholes, additional rounds remain to be worked: the rest of the ribbed rounds, and the lanyard cast-off itself. Therefore, mentally add the additional rows of length to top and bottom of the band when working out the buttonhole spacing. 

• As to which side to place the buttonholes, here is a post with details 
• For selecting buttons, this post 
• For sewing on buttons, this post 

Lanyard cast-off

After the last round of knitting, it is time to finish the garment with the lanyard cast off. Again, the full details are here, at the previous post.  If you find that the cast off is coming out too tight, consider the "single-crochet-like" variation. To avoid curling at the corners, I worked a detached chain of one blue and one green chain at each corner, between the markers. 

Hat

This was made without any particular pattern, and really, any hat pattern can be adapted. The hat starts with a lanyard cast-on (but see note about tension, below). 

There is a ribbing above the cast-on. This is followed by a deco-band worked in the round, using the trick of slipping to avoid having lots of ends in the same place and also using the smoothed-circle trick. 

Above the deco band, the hat is knit until slightly before the shaping is to start. There, another deco-band is worked. After two rounds knit plain, the decreasing begins. (Starting the shaping right after the deco band would distort the band.)

...grafted together

The hat ends by grafting together the last eight stitches (four per needle) according to step F of the truly flat hat top. 

Tension, cast on vs. cast off

The lanyard cast-on has a greater learning curve that the cast-off. You may have to experiment with several different crochet hook sizes to get the cord to your exact liking, and each iteration means starting over again from scratch. Truthfully, it took me a while to get tension. By contrast, with the cast-OFF, it's easier to adjust the tension as you go, or even to go back a step and re-do the last row or round in main color, if the tension isn't great. 

So, because the cast-off is easier to tension correctly, here's a shortcut to consider. 

• work a provisional cast on (like COWYAK)
• work the garment
• end by working the lanyard cast-OFF on the live stitches where the provisional cast off is removed

On the sample sweater, that one single left cuff cast-on isn't really worth this work-around, but for longer edges like the sample hat, perhaps you'll find this shortcut worthwhile. 

As to band tension, you might automatically choose to work the cuffs from the cast-on to above the deco band using smaller needles. As usual, smaller needles along a fabric edge make for neater work, so smaller needles for the cuffs is a very reasonable choice. However, for the long and continuous band around the bottom, front and neck--well, if that long band is knit on smaller needles, it would likely pull in too much. That's a LOT of edging all the way around. The entire garment would likely become distorted. 

Lanyard edges, deco bands and yarn weight

The sample sweater was adapted to be knit in heavier yarn because lanyard edges and deco bands make more of an impression when worked in heavier yarns. Worked in very thin yarns, the color contrast details are lost. DK or above yarn weight is recommended.

--TK

This is the fourth post in a series about lanyards. The other posts are:

• .Lanyard cords for decoration & utility: quickly use a crochet hook to make "lanyard cords" + musings on warp knitting (September 14, 2024)
• .Lanyards, starting and ending (September 27, 2024)
• .Lanyard Cast-On for knitters, and Lanyard Cast-Off, too, Let's make a fish (October 22, 2024)

Questions? Feedback? Talk to me about this post  on Ravelry TECHknitter forum 
or via e-mail (contact on "more info" page, upper right)

Colorful Lanyard Cast-On for knitters, and Lanyard Cast-Off, tooLet's make a fish!

Lanyards cords, useful for knitters was part 1 of this series. But lanyards aren't only for making cords  They also make very pretty CAST-ONs and CAST-OFFs! 

Colorful and quick: Lanyard cast-on

To demo, here are some little fish. These little quick projects show off how stretchy and pretty lanyard edges can be, with the cast ON matchy-matchy to the cast OFF. 

Cast on (fish bottoms) and cast off (fish tops): a perfect and colorful match

The next post will show the lanyard cast-on and cast-off in real life: on the edges of a baby sweater. And as a bonus, a matching deco-band which echoes both the cast-on and cast-off. But for today, the basics, so...

Let's make a fish

The sample fish is the pink one, featuring yellow borders and a red dotted outline.

Let's make a fish 

To make the fish, you will need:

• three different colors of scrap amounts of yarn: wool in worsted weight preferred (worsted weight = yarn ordinarily worked at 5 st/in)
• A crochet hook suitable to the yarn-gauge
• One small thin double pointed needle (DPN)
• Two knitting needles in a size suited to your yarn--I think DPN's will be easiest here.
• tartar sauce--haha! Not!

This is a three-color lanyard, but in the finished product, really only two colors are obvious in the lanyard itself. Specifically, 

• The first color laid down will be the color of the fish (A):  PINK  in our example. This color shows somewhat in the lanyard border itself, but the other two colors dominate. 
• The second color laid down (B) will be the contrast color which runs inside the border in a series of attractive purl-looking bumps,  RED  in our example.
• The third color (C) makes the top and bottom outline of the border. In the example, C = YELLOW: the yellow edges outlining the fish and the red border. This will also be the color of the wrapping on the fish's tail. 

This demo project uses short rows so you can cast OFF  without having to pick up along any edge: the cast-on segues directly into the cast-off.  Even if you've never worked a short row before, these ones are super-basic: don't let the short-row component scare you off. 

LANYARD CAST-ON

Make a three-strand S-mounted lanyard as shown in the first post of this series (illustrated directions for cord here, video of "s" mount here). 

Continue drawing loops through one another in regular order: pink-A, red-B, yellow-C until you have 11 pink bumps. End with the full sequence, meaning, after there are 11 pinks, make one more red and one more yellow. (Geek note: in this way, you are set to begin the cast OFF in correct color-cycle sequence with another pink.)

An S-mounted three color lanyard worked for 11 full cycles of pink-red-yellow. Running yarn to right, tails to left. The yellow loop is inactive at this point, but will patiently wait be picked up again as part of the cast-OFF.

With the slim, small dpn, pick up out of the lanyard, the pink bumps. Mount these right arm forward, as for ordinary knitting stitches. 

A repeat of the opening photo, showing pink "bumps" mounted right arm forward on a slim dpn. Click here to enlarge. These mounted loops are now ready to knit into. The yellow loop continues to patiently wait in suspension until we begin the cast off. 

__ __ __

KNIT THE FISH

Row 1 (front). Switch to larger dpn's. 

• Slip 1 pink st "open" (i.e.: not twisted, also called "slipping purl wise").
•  *P1, K1, repeat from * until within 2 sts of end, P1. 
• Wrap last st by holding yarn to back, slip last st to right needle, bring yarn to front, return last st (the one you just wrapped) to the left needle. 
• Turn work. 

Row 2 (back). Due to the slipping maneuver which ended row 1, row 2 begins with 1 st on the right needle and the yarn to the back. Don't forget to transfer the slipped stitch to the second of the larger dpn's before knitting row 2.

• *P1, K1, repeat from * to within 2 sts of end of row. 
• Wrap second-to-last st by holding yarn to back, slip second-to-last st to right needle, bring yarn to front. return second-to-last st to left needle. 
• Turn work.

Row 3 (front). Due to the slipping maneuver which ended row 2, row 3 begins with 2 sts on the right needle and the yarn to the back. 

• *K1, P1, repeat from * until within 3 sts of end of row. 
• Wrap third st from end of row by holding yarn to back, slip third-to-last st to right needle, bring yarn to front. return third-to-last st to left needle. 
• Turn work.

Row 4 (back). Due to the slipping maneuver which ended row 3, row 4 begins with 3 sts on the right needle and the yarn to the back. 

• *P1, K1, repeat from * once. You are now 4 sts from end of the row, P1.  
• Wrap third st from end of row by holding yarn to back, slip third-to-last st to right needle, bring yarn to front. return third-to-last st to left needle. 
• Turn work.

Row 5 (front). Due to the slipping maneuver which ended row 4, row 5 begins with 3 sts on the right needle and the yarn to the back. 

• *P1, K1, repeat from * once. You are now 4 sts from end of the row.  
• Wrap fourth st from end of row by holding yarn to back, slip fouth-to-last st to right needle, bring yarn to front. return fourth-to-last st to left needle. 
• Turn work.

 Row 6 (back). Here is a progress photo showing the work just before starting row 6. There are four sts on the right needle, 7 sts on the left needle and the pink running yarn is at the back of the work. In this back-view, the tails from the cast on are to the right, the red and yellow running yarns from the lanyard cast-on are to the left. The yellow loop waiting patiently to left shows where the lanyard remains in suspension while we continue knitting the fish. 

Progress photo: just before starting row 6

• Commence working row 6 by K1, P1, K1. You are now 4 sts from end of the row.  
• Wrap fourth st from end of row by holding yarn to back, slip fouth-to-last st to right needle, bring yarn to front. Return fourth-to-last st to left needle. 
• Turn work.

Row 7 (front). Due to the slipping maneuver which ended row 6, row 7 begins with 4 sts on the right needle and the yarn to the back. 

• *K1, P1, repeat from * once, K1.  You are now 2 sts from end of the row.  
• Wrap second--to-last st by holding yarn to back, slip second-to-last st to right needle, bring yarn to front. return second-to-last st to left needle. 
• Turn work.

Row 8 (back). Due to the slipping maneuver which ended row 7, row 8 begins with 2 sts on the right needle and the yarn to the back.

• * K1, P1, repeat from * to within 1 st from end of the row.  
• Wrap last st by holding yarn to back, slip last st to right needle, bring yarn to front. return last st to left needle. 
• Turn work.

Row 9 (front). Due to slipping maneuver which ended row 8, row 9 begins with 1 st on the right needle and the yarn to the back.  

• *P,1, K1, repeat from * to within 2 sts of end of row, P1. 
• Wrap last st by holding yarn to back, slip last st to right needle, bring yarn to front. return last st to left needle. 
• Turn work.

Row 10 (back). Switch to smaller dpn and slip the wrapped st onto it. Working with the smaller dpn, 

• *P1, K1 until within 2 st of end, P1. Slip last st. 

The knitting is done, 11 stitches are on the slim dpn. Cut the pink yarn to a tail of several inches. 

__ __ __

LANYARD CAST-OFF

Lanyard cast-off echoes the lanyard cast-on. The main difference is, the first stitches in the sequence--the pink ones--are not worked from the pink running yarn (which, in any case, you just cut off at the end of row 10!) Instead, the pink stitches of the last row of knitting--waiting there on their smaller dpn--will be used instead, acting as the first stitches of each cycle of the lanyard. 

Specifically, 

• Hold the work in your non-dominant (usually left) hand. 
• Take the crochet hook in your dominant (usually, right) hand and slip it through the yellow loop which has patiently been waiting in suspension all this time.
• Next, onto the crochet hook, slip in the "open" position, the first pink stitch from the tip of the smaller dpn. 
• Draw the pink stitch through the yellow loop, and snug up the yellow. The upper inset shows this: the first pink stitch has been slipped off the dpn onto the crochet hook, with the yellow loop now snugged up around its little neck. In the square overview photo, middle, you can see the yellow running yarn which has been tugged upon to do the snugging. 

The lower inset shows that after the pink has been drawn through and the yellow loop snugged and dropped off, the next step is exactly as for the lanyard cast on: the red is caught around the hook of the crochet needle, ready to be drawn through the pink.

Recall that the color-cycle sequence of the lanyard cast-ON was pink, red, yellow, then starting again with pink. So, you have just replicated that color-cycle by drawing a "first pink" through a "last yellow." and there is the second color--red--waiting to to go through the pink. After the red is through, the cycle will end again when the yellow running yarn is drawn through the red loop. Then, the next cycle will be set up to begin with next pink stitch drawn off the dpn by the crochet hook, and again drawn through yellow.

 Below is one final progress photo with the cast-off more than half done, and a pink about to be drawn off the slim dpn, then through a yellow. Recollect that, except when one loop is in the process of being drawn through another, there is only ever one loop at a time on the barrel of the crochet needle, so that yellow will drop off the needle as soon as the pink is pulled through.

Lanyard cast-off in progress

Geek note: Heads up! When we come to troubleshooting, we will revisit the above photo for an optional alternative bind-off. This photo has been given a green background rather than blue so you will remember it!

The cast off ends with a yellow, and the last step is to use the yellow running yarn to work a wrapping over the fish's tail. Begin by cutting the the red tail to the length of a few inches. Holding all the tail ends in a bunch in your left hand (non-dominant), work a single crochet casing over the strands (or use the yellow running yarn to work any other ending which catches your fancy in the second post of this series). 

Here is a close-up of the crocheted tail-wrap being worked. Again, the directions for this are in the second post of this series. 

Crocheted tail wrap worked over fish tail-strands

For finishing, work in the pink cut end near the head of the fish. If desired, knot the individual tail strands to prevent their coming unplied in the future, and make an eye with a scrap of contrast color yarn.

Wondering what to do with your fish? These are small enough to fit into an envelope with a card or letter, where little kids like them as a surprise. They also fly surprisingly well when thrown--the tails stream out and catch the breeze. 

TROUBLE-SHOOTING

Trouble-shooting a too-loose cast off. If the problem is that the main color stitch is too loose where it is worked as part of the bind off, then re-work the last row of the garment before the cast off with a smaller knitting needle. Because the cast-off often is somewhat loose, the fish pattern calls for a smaller needle on row 10, and if that's still too loose, use a smaller needle still. 

If the problem is that the cast off is just overall sloppy and loose, use a smaller crochet hook and/or pull the yarns tighter after each stitch.

Of course, all these tricks can be combined.

Trouble shooting a too-tight cast off. Sometimes, the problem is not a too-loose cast off, but a too-tight one. The first and easiest thing try is working the cast off with a larger size crochet hook.

If that is not sufficient, perhaps the last row of knitted stitches was knit on too small a needle. It stands to reason that if the last row of stitches on the slim dpn are too tight, the cast off will also be too tight. Correct by re-working the last row on a larger needle, rather than switching to a slim dpn.

 If the problem persists even with a looser last row and a larger hook, there is a third alternative: you may work the cast-off in the manner of a single crochet instead. And this is where we re-visit the photo with the green background. 

Suppose instead of drawing the pink through the yellow and the yellow dropping off, that you hold both the pink and the yellow on the crochet hook, as shown in the green-background photo AND THEN, draw the red through BOTH. This replicates how a single crochet is worked by drawing a third loop through two loops over the barrel of a crochet hook.

Specifically, *draw the pink off the slim dpn onto the barrel of the hook, BUT ALSO retain the yellow on the hook--there are now TWO loops on the barrel of the crochet hook as per photo. Through BOTH of these, you would draw the red as a loop. This would be followed by a single yellow drawn through the red in the manner of a chain stitch, but the next pink would NOT be drawn through the yellow, with instead, a new cycle commencing by repeating from *, above. 

Do you wonder whether the single-crochet-like alternative looks different than the ordinary lanyard cast-off? The fact is, you might notice the point where one switched to another, but they are otherwise extremely similar. The real difference is in the tension, not the overall appearance. 

__ __ __

CAST-ON AND -OFF IN REAL LIFE

On a larger project, the cast-on and cast-off are the same as shown here with one exception: you don't usually have a situation where one segues into the other, as they do on this pattern. Therefore, the cast on usually ends after the last main-color bump has been worked, meaning, you wouldn't add another red, yellow combo after the last pink as you did on the fish. Similarly, the cast-off usually starts by drawing the contrast color through the first stitch to be cast off. In terms of this pattern, there would have been no yellow loop waiting patiently to start the cast-off color cycle. Instead, you would have started by slipping off a pink stitch and drawing through a red, then a yellow, before starting the cycle over again by slipping the second pink off the knitting needle, and through the yellow.

--TK

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Lanyards starting and ending

The previous post showed making (warp knit!) lanyard cords with a crochet hook, suitable as drawstrings for hoodies and the like. In this post, we'll look at starting and ending these cords.  There are lots of choices!

From easiest to most complex, lots of choices

Of these endings, some are simple knots, some involve crochet, some are a form of macramé. But these are by no means the only options. Knots and macramé are crafts in themselves, and many decorative knots have been developed over the centuries. This post barely scratches the surface. 

1 a and b: cord-end knotted, with tassel-end

1a: Using the overhand knot, knot the end of the cord, leaving the strands protruding and unknotted.

1b: same, but also work an overhand knot on the ends of each individual strands.

This is the easiest option: a few seconds and you're done, plus, the cord will never unravel. As shown below, work an overhand knot on the end of the cord. For the longest-lasting cords, catch the base of the cord itself into the knot. The strands protrude as a tassel, either left as they are (option 1a) or each strand knotted (1b) to prevent it coming un-plied in the future.

Left: overhand knot at end of cord, the cord end is part of the knot.

Middle, option 1a: knot tightened, strands left protruding as a tassel, strand ends unknotted.

Right, option 1b: tassel strand-ends knotted.

To work this as a cord-beginning, prepare by leaving unworked, sufficient lengths from which to afterwards to form a tassel. Above, these lengths, start the cord with a twist. Then, knot the end afterwards as part of the finishing process. While it may seem you could just start with a knot, that will result in a cord loose at that end. You can't catch into the knot, the base of a cord you haven't yet started! 

 This option works on all the cords: flat, as well as 2-, 3- and 4-strand. It is the quickest. 

2a, b and c: ends worked in through a knot or winding

2a: cord knotted, tails worked in

2b: same as a, but on an I-cord

2c: winding instead of knotting, also shown on an I-cord

Knotted or wound-around, on a lanyard or even on an I-cord.

First, secure the cord end with an overhand knot as for option 1.

Left: thread each strand-end in turn onto a needle, 

Right: work the end into the cord through the knot (no tassels). Tension the strand slightly and cut near the cord. 

2a: Knot the end of the cord as for option 1. Then, thread a sharp needle with each strand in turn, plunging through the knot itself before burying the end in the hollow center of the tube. Plunge the end into the knot very close to the spot where it emerges from the knot, but not in the exact same spot, or you risk undoing the knot itself. Where the worked-in strand emerges from the cord below the knot, tension the strand slightly and then carefully cut close to the cord. The strand will retract into the cord-center, never to be seen again. 

2b: Same, but on an I-cord. Many people leave their I-cords plain on the ends, the only finishing being to work in the end. However, IMHO, adding an overhand knot is an improvement: it protects the cord-end and gives you a little knob to grab when tightening the cord. 

2c, winding: On an I-cord, you have only one strand to work in at each end. So, you can simply wind the strand tightly around the end several times. Then, using a threaded needle, plunge the strand-end through the core of the cord (and therefore, also through the tight winding). On lanyard, you can wind one strand around, then work the other strands into the tail through the winding, just as you would work tails in through a knot. 

Working a threaded needle through a knot or winding requires force so watch out! Don't pierce your fingers! Consider wearing a thimble. 

Like option 1, to use this at the beginning of a cord, start the cord with a twist, then come back afterwards and work the knot or winding, leaving the strands a sufficient length before starting the cord. 

 This option works best on hollow-center cords (i.e.: I-cord, or 3- and 4- stranded lanyard). This option is my personal favorite: it never, ever wears out and remains fresh over the years (decades!) 

3a and b: half-hitch knots over the strands

Option 3 is very quick: a series of half hitch knits in contrasting colors, leaving the strands as tassels. These endings taper the cord because only the strands are knotted: this leads the cord-end to elongate. In other words, the base of the cord is not part of the knot. This means that, unlike the other "endings" in this series, you can also start the cord with these knots, a good option if you want to start working the lanyard from a completely secure base. You can leave the tassel-strands plain or comb them out for a feathery look. (You can also knot them as for option 1b, but that is not shown.)

Half-hitches, 3a: three left are sequential. 3b, (right) is alternating from both sides over the center red "filler cords"

On a three-stranded cord, (three left cords, option 3a) each strand takes a turn being worked over the ends as a half-hitch. On a four-stranded cord (right, option 3b) the cords are divided into pairs: the inner pair remains as a "filler cord" (red in photo) while the outer pair (yellow and black) alternate being knotted from opposite sides, in half-hitches around the filler.  

A half-hitch knot is nothing more than an overhand knot (shown above, option 1) but this time, worked around the other strands.

Half-hitch

 Here is a  useful animation: as you watch, imagine the metal knob as the other strands of the tassel.

One note. Skinny knots pulled tightly are not easy to undo. Consider practicing tension in knot-making around some plain strands of yarn before committing to knotting an ending onto a lanyard cord. 

This option works on all the cords: flat, as well as 2-, 3- and 4-strand. However, it is not very showy in a two-stranded cord. 

4: single crochet casing over the strands

Crocheted casing

This is a quick ending. It is best worked using one of the strands of the lanyard, so prepare by leaving a long tail (longer than you think!) for that strand at beginning and end. 

Here is the how-to diagrammed in 7 steps

step 1

1: leave a long tail--shown here as blue. Hold this strand to the back with your non-dominant hand (usually, left) with the long strand uppermost.

step 2

2: Using a crochet hook, and working with the long strand, reach the hook behind the other strands of the tassel and pull a loop to the front (highlighted red).

step 3

3: Retaining the red loop over the barrel of the crochet needle, again reach behind the other strands of the tassel and catch the long strand under the hook of the needle as a second loop (highlighted green). Draw the second loop through the first in the direction of the red arrow.

step 4

4: You now have a loop (highlighted green) over the barrel of the needle, anchored at the bottom by the previous loop (highlighted red). In other words, the red loop is an anchoring loop, formed around the other strands of the tassel and the green loop is a chain stitch, pulled through the red anchor.  

step 5

5: Retaining the green highlighted loop around the barrel of the crochet hook, again reach the needle behind the other strands of the tassel and use the hook to pull up a new loop (highlighted purple), However, do NOT pull the purple loop through the green. The purple loop is actually another anchoring loop.

step 6

6. Retaining the green AND the purple loops over the barrel of the crochet needle, catch yet an additional loop over the needle (highlighted orange). There are now three loops over the crochet hook: green, purple and orange. The entire assembly is anchored by the red loop first made, as well as the base of the purple loop.

step 7

7: Finally, pull the orange loop through the green and the purple loops. Like the green loop, the orange loop is a chain stitch, it is not an anchoring stitch. 

With this series of maneuvers, you are performing "single crochet" stitches, the bases of which surround the other strands of the tassel. In technical terms, these stitches "encase" the other tassel-strands, so that you have made a "single crochet casing" over the other strands. To make the next stitch, recolor the loop on your needle to green in your mind's eye, and repeat steps 5, 6 and 7. 

Again: the structure is a series of anchoring loops (the red as well as the purple loops above) topped with a chain of traveling loops (the green and the orange loops above).  In the opening photo, you can see the topping-chain running along the right side of the casing, while the anchoring stitches lay to the left, encasing the other tassel-strands.

If the tension is not what you expected, this casing is very easy to pull out and redo, tighter or looser,  using a smaller or larger hook. This is a big advantage over methods requiring knots of any kind. 

Finishing: When the casing is as long as you want, and you are happy with the tension, pull the yarn tail through the last loop on the crochet hook. However, this causes the tail to stick up into the air, so, with your crochet hook, reach under the last loop of the last anchoring stitch, and pull the tail through this loop to join the other strands where they emerge from the casing. The tail will now lay in the same orientation (under the loop) as the other strands and form part of the tassel. 

Because the casing is made from one of the strands of the cord, this casing cannot slide off the end of the tassel: it is anchored in the cord itself.

To use this at the beginning of a cord, start the lanyard with a twist,  as shown in the first post, afterwards working this casing over the beginning of the cord. Again: prepare by purposely leaving one strand long before starting the lanyard. 

This option works on all the lanyard cords: flat, as well as 2-, 3- and 4-strand. (Preview: this is the ending for the little fish we will make in the next post, which introduces lanyard cast-on and bind-off. Stay tuned!)

5a and b: macramé endings: gathering knot and spiraling half-hitches

5a: winding a tassel: gathering knot. In this variation, you wind the end of the cord somewhat similar to option 2c, but where that option featured a knot, this option features a tassel. This is a form of macramé called a "gathering knot."

Gathering knot

For this trick, you use a separate piece of yarn, in the color you want the winding to be. IRL (photo above) there is a red winding over a four-strand red cord. In the diagram below, we are winding a blue yarn around a four-strand gray tassel-end. 

Four steps of a gathering knot

• 1. Using your separate piece of yarn (blue) pull down a loop (highlighted in red) then begin winding down, over the loop in a clockwise direction, following the red arrow. 
• 2. Wind around several times, evenly and tightly.
• 3. Draw the cord-facing tail (highlighted red) through the beginning loop (also red)--this is at bottom of illustration. Tug up on the tassel tail in the direction of the red arrow. 
• 4. This snugs the loop-and-tail assembly, and hides it in the winding. 

This kind of winding tends to want to slide off the end of the cord in use. To combat, thread the cord-facing end of the winding onto a needle and work it into the hollow core of the cord, shown below. Tension the strand slightly, then cut where it exits the cord and it will retract. Leaving a long tail inside the core of the cord adds friction, helping the winding stay in place. 

Hiding the cord-facing tail in the hollow core, similar to option 2, above

If the color of the winding is wrong for it to become part of the tassel, then the tassel-tail can be cut short and its end tucked under the winding. Otherwise, if this tail is the correct color to join the tassel, it adds one strand to the tassel--the red tassel in the photo is a four-strand, but there are five tassel tails for this reason. 

Experience teaches that, if you are using a same color winding, you should somehow distinguish the winding-tail from all the other tails. That way, when the time comes to tug the opening loop under the winding, you will know just which tail to pull. Another thing: You can work this over the strands only, or over the strands and the base of the cord--doesn't really matter, just work both ends of your lanyard the same. 

To work this at a cord-beginning, start the cord with a twist,  as shown in the lanyard post. Then, afterwards, work the winding over the cord-beginning as part of the finishing process.

 This option works best on hollow-center cords (i.e.: I-cord, or 3- and 4- stranded lanyard) because the hollow core offers a place to anchor the top tail. However, if you are willing to cut the top tail and tuck it under the winding, it also works with 2-strand or flat lanyards: in that case, wind very tightly.

5b: spiraling half-hitches with tassels, a macramé ending with optional additional strands

Macramé half-hitch spiral with optional additional strands

This ending is nothing more than a series of half-hitches tied, always in the same order, over the cord-end. As each knot is tied, it is pushed back in sequence by the pre-existing cord before it. The result is a very pretty spiral.

The tassel above has optional extra strands added for a fuller-looking tassel. The diagrams below demo that idea with an additional purple strand. However, additional strands are optional: you can work this spiral of half-hitches over a cord without adding any extra strands. 

step 1

1. Into the last loop of the lanyard (blue), draw the other strand(s) of the lanyard, as well as (optional) additional short strands of yarn (here, shown in purple). For optional additional strands, center them in the loop with one arm to the outside, as shown. Snug up this last loop and leave this blue strand of lanyard-yarn quite long, this "running yarn" is what the tassel-end will come to be wrapped with.

step 2

2. Thread the blue strand onto a needle and work it a short distance up the core of the cord until it emerges at the point where you want the spiral to start--maybe a half-inch or so. Unlike in previous options where a strand was threaded through a cord-core, DO NOT cut the yarn. 

step 3--making a half-hitch

3. Commence by making a half hitch around the cord-end, at the height the running yarn emerges. This half-hitch and all the others (except the last) are made as shown: following the path of the red arrow, draw the yarn to the back, then behind the tassel, around the bottom, then up in front, and finally, from right to left, under the strand where it emerges from the cord.  

step 4--spiraling half-hitches

4. Continue in this manner making sequential half hitches around the tassel, always in the same direction. As you snug each knot firmly to its neighbor, the knots will automatically spiral around the cord. You can enhance the angle of the spiral by further twisting the knots around the tassel after every few knots. 

step 5--last half-hitch

5. To end the series, work the final half-hitch in the other direction. Specifically, bring the strand behind the tassel, around the bottom, but this time, through the previous loop from left to right. In this orientation, the last knot lays over the strand, trapping the strand to lay smooth as part of the tassel. This is the same knot as was used in option 3, above.

Because the casing is made from one of the strands of the cord, this casing cannot slide off the end of the tassel: it is anchored in the cord itself.

To use this at the beginning of a cord, start the lanyard with a twist. Then, afterwards work this macramé series of knots over the beginning of the cord. Purposely leave one strand long before starting. 

This option works on all the lanyard cords: flat, as well as 2-, 3- and 4-strand. It is true that a flat cord has no hollow core, but, because the yarn is wound and knotted around the cord-end, the part of the strand threaded onto the needle in step 2 will never show. 

* * *

One final note: wherever a yarn-end has to be worked in above, the illustration shows a threaded needle. However, a knit-picker tool works just as well if not better, especially with short ends. I showed a sewing needle because I didn't want you to think you had to run out and buy some new tool. However, IMHO, it is really worthwhile getting and learning to use a knit-picker. 

Knit-picker tool showing closeup of head. IRL, the hook is  tiny.

A knit-picker is a tiny latch hook meant for dragging snags to the back of the fabric in commercially knit polo shirts and the like. They are available in every fabric store. To work tails into a lanyard, work the hook in the open-position through the knot or winding, or up into the hollow core of a cord. Then, grab the tail to be worked-in under the latch, shut the latch and retract the knit picker. This drags the tail along with the retracting hook. In other words, a knit-picker works the opposite direction to a sewing needle and has the advantage of never needing to be threaded. There is more about working ends in with a knit picker at this post, and the idea is the same for working through a knot or winding, or burying an end in a hollow core. 

Again: working anything, needle OR knit-picker, through a knot or winding takes force. Do not pierce your finger. Consider a thimble.  

* * *

Other posts in this series: 

Cords for Decoration and Utility: quickly use a crochet hook to make "lanyard" cords (+musings on warp knitting)

Using Lanyards for colorful cast-on and cast-off (Let's make a fish)

--TK

Questions? Feedback? Talk to me about this post on TECHknitting Ravelry forum.