Friday, March 4, 2011

Jogless stripes--pretty picture version (part 3 of a series)

Slip-stitch jogless stripes were the subject of a post way back in January 2007. Then in the spring of 2009, Interweave Knits published an jogless stripe article by me which included the 2007 info plus some new info about barberpole (helix) jogless stripes. The article also came with a video. With the two most recent posts, helix stripes and a link to the video have now been added to this blog, and the only part of the 2009 article not yet reproduced are some pretty pictures of slip-stitch jogless stripes.

These pictures cover the same ground as the 2007 slip-stitch jogless post--identical info--but these new pictures are prettier. Rather than mess with the original post, I'm putting them into a post of their own--maybe these prettier pictures will shed a better light than the old pictures, even though the process is identical.

* * *

Slip-stitch jogless stripes

General directions:

  • *On color change rounds, change colors by simply knitting the first stitch of the new color as you normally would knit any stitch. Next, knit the rest of the stitches to the end of the round.
  •  On the next round, slip the first stitch of the new color, then knit the rest of the stitches. On every following round, knit every stitch as usual
  •  Repeat from * every time you want to change colors.


Per the illustration below, slipping the stitch at the beginning of the second round (green arrow) pulls that first stitch of the new color up to span both first and second rounds; the last stitch of the previous color gets pulled smaller (orange arrow); and the stitch of the old color in the row below the slipped stitch gets pulled up along with the slip stitch stitch (purple arrow). These forces arrange the stitches into smaller “steps” (black arrows) lessening the contrast between the old color and the new and essentially eliminating the jog.

How the slip stitch makes the stripe jogless


Jogless slip-stitch stripes come in two types: “traveling” and “stationary.” The actual technique is as shown above, and is the same in both, the only difference is the point at which you change color.

TRAVELING stripes

Per the illustration below, if you choose to let the beginning of the round travel one stitch to the left with each color change (orange arrow) then every part of every row will be the same height and have the same number of stitches, and these are the traveling stripes.

Traveling jogless stripes


Here are complete step-by step directions for this type:

  •  On the round before you intend to change colors, insert a stitch marker at the place you intend to change colors.
  • *On the color change round--slip the marker, then change colors by simply starting to knit with the new color.
  •  On the following round, when you come to the marker, slip it. Then, slip the first stitch of the new color from the left needle to the right needle purlwise (ie: not twisted). Knit all the rest of the stitches of the round.  

 Knit as many rounds as you desire for the stripe, knitting every stitch. One round before your next color change, shift the marker over one stitch to the left. Make more stripes by repeating from *.

Stationary stripes


If you choose to hold the beginning of the round in the same place, then in the color-change column (orange arrow) each stripe will be one stitch shorter, and these are the stationary stripes. 

Stationary jogless stripes

Stationary, closeup

 Here are complete step-by step directions for this type:

  • On the round before you intend to change colors, insert a stitch marker at the place you intend to change colors.
  • *When you come to a color change round, slip the marker, then change colors by simply starting to knit with the new color.
  •  On the following round, when you come to the marker, slip it. Then, slip the first stitch of the new color from the left needle to the right needle purlwise (ie: not twisted) Knit the rest of the stitches of the round.

 Knit as many rounds as you desire for the stripe, knitting every stitch. Make more stripes by repeating from *.

Which stripe where?

 The advantage to traveling stripes is that every part of every round is the same height; the disadvantage is that the round beginning "travels" one stitch leftward with every color change (illustration 10) Also, with traveling stripes, a faint spiral pattern will develop along the diagonal of the color change. This spiral pattern is more obvious in heavy fabrics and less obvious in thinner fabrics, so the traveling stripes are better for thinner stripes and/or thinner wool.

 The advantage to stationary stripes is that the color change remains in the same place; the disadvantage is that at one part of each round, that round will dip one stitch lower. (illustration 12). With thin stripes, and/or in thin wool, you'd soon have substantially fewer stitches along this column, so the fabric might start to "pull" along that column of stitches. However, with thick wool (5 st/in or fewer) and/or thicker stripes, this isn't an issue because knitting stretches enough to solve the problem. Therefore, stationary stripes are best for thick wool and/or thick stripes.


-TK

21 Comments:

Blogger homesweethome said...

Which technique would you recommend when doing welting (horizontal stripes of purl and/or garter stitch on a field of stockinette) in the round?

Danelle in Kansas, wondering . . .

March 4, 2011 at 8:30 PM  
Blogger TECHknitter said...

With purl or garter stitch stripes, it is best to change color while still in stockinette, knit one round and THEN switch to purl or garter stitch. Failure to do so will yield a "dotted" or broken" two-color look in the first purl round. Since it is best to work the first round of the new color in stockinette, you are free to use whichever one of these methods best suits your case-- both will work.

March 4, 2011 at 9:11 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Oh, I'm working in a solid yarn--no colored stripe changes--just the "striping" of the welts. The purls "jog" just like a color change. Hmm, is there a way to post a picture?

Danelle

March 5, 2011 at 12:40 PM  
Blogger TECHknitter said...

ah--I see. Have a look at this post, which shows how to solve that exact problem (it arises in the slightly different context of a purl fold line, but it is the identical problem--have a look at text accompanying the illustration highlighted in pink...)

http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2011/02/horizontal-fold-lines-in-knitting-part.html

(You have to cut and paste the above link into your browser-sorry I don't know how to do links in a comment.)

March 5, 2011 at 3:22 PM  
Blogger mornnen said...

Hi Techknitter--
I just read through your instructions for the traveling and stationary jogless stripes, and I find myself confused because I don't see a difference in the instructions. What am I missing?

March 7, 2011 at 8:16 PM  
Blogger TECHknitter said...

Hi Mornen--There was a part hiding from you in the text about the traveling stripes which I have now gone back and HIGHLIGHTED IN RED, so it can't hide any more! See if it makes more sense now, OK?--TK

March 7, 2011 at 8:23 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Wow, I must be dense... I read all three ways of doing jogless stripes and they all seem the same to me. Anyway, I'm practising with a mitten right now. Anyone wanting to discuss knitting know-how with mittens, you can contact me. Thanks.
PT52BABYBERGER@GMAIL.COM

Gisele -

March 20, 2011 at 7:18 PM  
Blogger TECHknitter said...

Hi Gisele--the first method is the general directions, the second method makes a traveling stripe, the third method makes a stationary stripe. The difference between the traveling and stationary is** WHERE** the change occurs, the actual method of changing is the same. Best, TK

March 21, 2011 at 8:23 AM  
Anonymous Renee @ Loca-faces said...

Hi, first, thanks for such great writing and illustrations. When I picked up knitting again after a 9 year lapse this Winter and decided to try socks, I found myself cursing the kitchner stitch. I finally found your post via a google search and am now totally comfortable with it. I really appreciate the level of detail and technical orientation. It must take a lot of work. So, thanks.

The Ravelry stranded group sent me to this post after I asked about striped socks. This helps me with the jogging and I'll try it now, but I am also wondering about the hole created when changing colors. I have high contrast yarn and I'm wondering what the best approach is to minimize see-through. When you carry yarn B up through a stripe of yarn A, do you move it over slightly so that when it joins it can be brought under yarn A to avoid a hole? and any trick to joining a new, high contrast yarn? Or is the best thing just to join it just left of where the round starts? Any thoughts welcome!

May 8, 2011 at 5:48 AM  
Blogger TECHknitter said...

Hi Renee--the very best thing of all would be to try it and see, on a swatch. I myself do not get a hole or any show-through, but if the knitting were somewhat loose, this could be an issue. Part of this problem can be regulated by carefully regulating the tension of the yarns being carried--if the new color, being carried up the length of one stripe is made too tight, there will be a pucker and something of a hole. If the new color being carried up the length of one stripe is left too loose, the slipped stitch will have enough slack to distort and stretch. So, the tension of that carried yarn is the thing to practice. BTW--if you have a too-tight tension, there is no ready cure, but a too-loose tension can be corrected, albeit slowly, by picking and tugging the excess out of the carry-strand and distributing it over the first 10 or so knit stitches on either side of the strand.

May 8, 2011 at 8:01 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Techknitter, thanks for the pictures and explanations - they are fantastic! I was wondering if traveling stripes would be the thing to do in a striped top-down in the round pullover in a fingering weight wool - where the two colors change every round (in other words, a stripe of each color is a single row). I will test this, of course, but if you know what would happen in my situation, I would appreciate any insight you might have. Thanks, Klara

May 10, 2011 at 11:50 AM  
Blogger TECHknitter said...

Hi Klara--look into Helix stripes--these are far better for a single row stripe.
Cut and paste the below into your browser window...

http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2011/03/helix-barberpole-stripes-part-2-of.html

May 10, 2011 at 7:59 PM  
Blogger Karla V Muntane said...

Cannot wait to try it tonight!! I will come back with an image :) Thanks for sharing TK!

December 6, 2011 at 6:37 PM  
Anonymous arealniteowl (at yahoo) said...

First, thank you for outstanding and clear instructions and diagrams. One question. I am about to put stripes into the center section of a cowl. The top and bottom edges of the cowl are K2P2 and the center section is K1P1. Which (if either!) method will work to give me jogless stripes without losing the K1P1 pattern?

October 27, 2012 at 10:53 PM  
Blogger TECHknitter said...

Hi ARNO: You might find it helpful to read about "icky dots" (which are the contrasting color dots on the purl column of (any kind of) ribbing)) and how that all works with jogless joins. The relevant post is here:

http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/03/jogless-ribbing-with-trick-to-work-your.html

Although the post does not stress this, the "icky dots" are eliminated by simply knitting the whole color-change round (no purling) as explained further in this post:

http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/02/color-texture-and-ribbing-without-icky.html

tldr summary: do the stationary jogless join, and KNIT (no purling) the entire first round of the new color, then return to the regular ribbing pattern after that round.

Best, TK



October 28, 2012 at 11:24 AM  
Anonymous arealniteowl (at yahoo) said...

Thank you! I can't believe how quickly you respond. It is sincerely appreciated. I hadn't considered icky dots, but it makes sense. I will experiment tonight to see what knitting the entire round does to the rib. Many thanks.

October 29, 2012 at 5:30 PM  
Anonymous Raphaele said...

Thank you so much for this post and the whole blog, this is THE place where I find clear answers to tricky questions, you make it all clear. I can't stop marvelling at the amount of information there is here, this is especially useful for advanced knitters I think. I'm going to try the first method as far as I'm concerned.

October 15, 2013 at 3:35 PM  
Blogger Acornbud said...

Thank you!

October 20, 2013 at 11:41 AM  
Anonymous Francis said...

Hi TK -- this post is wonderful! I just have a question about increasing rounds and the traveling method. Do I need to take into consideration the shifting of the beginning of the round when I am adding m1? This is the pattern that I am using: http://www.midnightknitter.com/knitpixiepatterns/uploads/mittens_two.htm

I'm not sure if I should just follow the pattern as is or if I need to calculate the shift.

Thank you!
Francis

January 1, 2014 at 11:00 PM  
Blogger Valerie said...

Thank you so very much for this. I have struggled to knit stripes in the round. I have to projects that I am now able to tackle thanks to you.

January 4, 2014 at 4:09 PM  
Blogger TECHknitter said...

Hi Francis--I am not aware of that particular pattern. In general, if you are working a pattern where it is important to keep the round marker in the same location, then choose the STATIONARY stripes.

(When using the TRAVELING stripes, the easiest thing is to allow the stitch marker--which marks the beginning of the round--to travel also. This would not be a good idea if there is shaping to be done at the same spot on every round.)
Good luck--TK

January 6, 2014 at 1:33 PM  

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