The BEST way to attach lining fabric to knitting--the OVERCAST STITCH (part 5 of "hand sewing for hand knitters")
We come now to a stitch as useful to hand knitters as any stitch could well be--we come to the OVERCAST STITCH.
This stitch has the fabulous ability to attach a LINING to KNIT FABRIC in such a manner that the lining does not rip out of the knit garment as soon as the knit garment is stretched.
In a poll on this blog back in October, many, MANY knitters have indicated that they would like to learn to LINE their KNITTING. We have been easing into this subject -- TECHknitting has already given directions for lining a hat with a Polar fleece headband. And this is just the beginning of this complex topic--in the future, a whole series will be illustrated, showing just how to design and cut a custom lining out of lining fabric. However, all of this--simple linings and complex ones--hinge on the ability to SEW the lining in. And for this kind of sewing, the OVERCAST stitch is (as my kids say) "da bomb."
The illustration below shows a green lining being overcast stitched to a blue knitted fabric by a right handed sewer. (Click picture to enlarge.)
The close-up illustration below shows why this stitch works.(Click picture to enlarge.)
As you can imagine, attaching a lining to knitting is a challenge because lining is often made of WOVEN CLOTH, and woven cloth, as we all know, does not stretch very much. Knitting, on the other hand, is extremely stretchy. The stitch chosen to attach such dissimilar fabrics must have the following qualities:
1. It must be able to hold the woven cloth in place, even when the underlying knitted fabric is stretching
2. It must not stop the knitted cloth from stretching
3. It must provide a flexible connection between the woven cloth and the knitted fabric.
The overcast stitch gets a "A+" on all three factors. As stated in a previous post, the overcast stitch "tethers" the fabrics together rather than "nailing" them together. If you will look closely at the stitch in the close-up above, you will see that the lining fabric is actually "hanging" from the knitted fabric--in other words, the overcast stitch is acting as a little string from which the lining is "swinging." This "swing" allows the lining to adjust to the stretch of the fabric.
As the final illustration, below, shows, there is also quite a bit of thread reserve in the overcast stitch--the path of the thread resembles a coiled spring, and this coil of thread has the reserve to stretch when stressed.
We are leaving to a future time and a future post, the issue of how to cut the lining, how to provide "ease" in the lining (ie: how to make the lining enough bigger than the knitting so the lining has some "give" to it), how to seam the lining and how to hem the lining. In other words, today we have looked ONLY at how to SEW the lining, and--again--for this task, the OVERCAST stitch is unsurpassed.
--TECHknitter (You have been reading TECHknitting on: The over cast stitch--part 5 of "hand sewing for hand knitters.")
This stitch has the fabulous ability to attach a LINING to KNIT FABRIC in such a manner that the lining does not rip out of the knit garment as soon as the knit garment is stretched.
In a poll on this blog back in October, many, MANY knitters have indicated that they would like to learn to LINE their KNITTING. We have been easing into this subject -- TECHknitting has already given directions for lining a hat with a Polar fleece headband. And this is just the beginning of this complex topic--in the future, a whole series will be illustrated, showing just how to design and cut a custom lining out of lining fabric. However, all of this--simple linings and complex ones--hinge on the ability to SEW the lining in. And for this kind of sewing, the OVERCAST stitch is (as my kids say) "da bomb."
The illustration below shows a green lining being overcast stitched to a blue knitted fabric by a right handed sewer. (Click picture to enlarge.)
The close-up illustration below shows why this stitch works.(Click picture to enlarge.)
As you can imagine, attaching a lining to knitting is a challenge because lining is often made of WOVEN CLOTH, and woven cloth, as we all know, does not stretch very much. Knitting, on the other hand, is extremely stretchy. The stitch chosen to attach such dissimilar fabrics must have the following qualities:
1. It must be able to hold the woven cloth in place, even when the underlying knitted fabric is stretching
2. It must not stop the knitted cloth from stretching
3. It must provide a flexible connection between the woven cloth and the knitted fabric.
The overcast stitch gets a "A+" on all three factors. As stated in a previous post, the overcast stitch "tethers" the fabrics together rather than "nailing" them together. If you will look closely at the stitch in the close-up above, you will see that the lining fabric is actually "hanging" from the knitted fabric--in other words, the overcast stitch is acting as a little string from which the lining is "swinging." This "swing" allows the lining to adjust to the stretch of the fabric.
As the final illustration, below, shows, there is also quite a bit of thread reserve in the overcast stitch--the path of the thread resembles a coiled spring, and this coil of thread has the reserve to stretch when stressed.
We are leaving to a future time and a future post, the issue of how to cut the lining, how to provide "ease" in the lining (ie: how to make the lining enough bigger than the knitting so the lining has some "give" to it), how to seam the lining and how to hem the lining. In other words, today we have looked ONLY at how to SEW the lining, and--again--for this task, the OVERCAST stitch is unsurpassed.
--TECHknitter (You have been reading TECHknitting on: The over cast stitch--part 5 of "hand sewing for hand knitters.")
contents © 2006-2013 by techknitting@hotmail.com
32 Comments:
You have a Nice and unique craft blog
all i can say is WOW!
did you create the step by step instructional images on your own? you must have plenty of "free time".
keep it up!
I was going to comment on the illustrations too. They are fab!
Wow, you must know a lot about knitting. Do you know anything about knitting stuff for pets? Drop by our wikifido forums sometime :)
Thank goodness for bloggers like you!
That's some awesome instructions there, thank you!
WOW = thanks for everything that you post - it is very informative and ever so helpful
wonderful step by step instructions your graphic photos are perfection! The best I have yet to see in explaining knitting.
This is an outstanding learning blog. I will bookmark it and see if I can learn from it as I am working on a tutorial blog as well.
I just finished a purse and am getting ready to line it - thanks for this tip.
One of my friends who is in my knitting class shared your site with us. I am so glad she did, you explain things so easy to understand. Very much enjoy your subjects.
Getting ready to work on a purse and I will defintely use your tips for when I want to line it.
I recently lined a knitted tie using blind stitch. Would that be a good stitch to line a felted bag with? Also, does the lining have to be a woven fabric? Do you have any recommendations for nice lining fabrics? Thanks.
In general, is it good practice to split plies when sewing knit stitches?
I can see why sewing this way would be more invisible than going through the "regular" holes formed by knitting, but how about strength? Does the yarn hold up?
Hi Kim: the blind stitch is more fragile than the overcast stitch, but has the advantage of being less obvious.
Hi Dawn: I have 15 year old lined sweaters that were sewn through a split ply--children's sweaters which have been subjected to severe use --and they have stood up well to the test of time.
--Thanks for writing.
--TK
Hi, I am wondering if the overcast stitch is the way that mass produced knitted hats are lined? I want to line my knitted hats as close to the knitted hats you will find at the stores.
Hi Lisa--commercial linings are attached to commercially knit caps in many ways, but none of them are the overcast stitch, because the overcast stitch is a stitch which can ONLY be worked by hand. Some commercial linings are sewn in with blind hem stitches, which has the same "tethering" effect as the overcast stitch, while many linings are sewn in using an ordinary serger stitch, but using a "wooly" nylon or other stretchable thread. Various other stitches are used, too, but they are stitches only on commercial sewing machines, and I don't know the names of these. Good luck with your lining!
--TK
Thank you for this. I made a scarf to my husband's specifications from a beautiful merino with a garter stitch border but the first time he wore it in the rain, it became a tight little knitted tube. Am currently lining it in polar fleece. Makes it warmer and covers the back which is not as attractive as the front.
Hi,This is a great piece. thanks. Although I have one more question. Could tell me how can I attach a hand knit piece to a fabric as a part of a dress, like include in construction?
Hi Anon--this is an interesting question, and the answer depends very much on what you are trying to attach to what, and why. An example: Knitting attached to woven fabric where one is the lining for the other is a completely different issue that knitting being one part of the garment, and the woven fabric being another part,such as a dress with a knitted bodice and woven-fabric skirt. The reason these are different (very!) things is that in the first application (kitting/woven fabric sandwich of some kind) the knitting is no longer expected to be stretchy--so any method of sewing can be used. By contrast in the second application, the knitting IS expected to remain stretchy, and therefore, the method of attachment (and the amount of ease allowed in the woven fabric) must take this into account.
If you e-mail me (TECHknitting@hotmail.com) with further particulars, I can answer more fully.
Best, TK
Would polar fleece be good for lining a Christmas stocking too?
Thanks so much for your blog. You help me more times than you know!!
Mary L
Virginia
Hi Mary: Polar fleece would be fine for an Xmas stocking in my opinion! Polar fleece is very easy to work with, so it is the default lining around here, for most purposes.
Is there any difference between the overcast stitch and the whip stitch? They seem the same to me, but I'm probably missing something.
Thank you for your helpful posts.
Hi Jessica-Jean--The whip and the overcast stitch are the same thing--you are quite right, and this stitch has at least one other name besides, which is hem stitch --TK
Thank you! Couldn't figure out why they both looked the same but had different names--will be using grosgrain ribbon to line the ribbed bands on a reverse stockinette cardi that rolls (of course!) to the outside in an attempt to counteract the rolling. So glad I found your blog, it's invaluable.
Does anyone know where I could purchase premade liners for knit sweaters? Thanks everyone.
I have a question. If you were to cut the lining fabric on the bias the lining fabric should be a little stretchier, would that be better for lining sleeves where you want the the stretch?
Hi Ebbie: certainly cutting fabric on the bias increases the stretch of it, so try that, for sure, if it is fabric (woven fabric, I mean) lining which you want. Otherwise, consider a knit fabric lining-such as the thin polar fleece (the thick would be too grabby for a sleeve) or a slick knit fabric, such as a sport stretch, interlock or even a thin lycra. The advantage to the knit lining is that it will stretch a LOT more than woven fabric cut on the bias, the disadvantage is that knit linings are harder to sew. Good luck! TK
I have just attached a lining to a crocheted blanket. Thanks to your advice it has worked brilliantly.
Thank you SO much for your helpful information on "tethering" vs. "nailing"... and on a multitude of other knitting topics! I visit your site often, and always come away with exactly the information I am looking for. And not just that, but also the "why", which intrigues me just as much as the "how." Thanks for your wonderfully composed illustrations, as well.
Is it time now to address …
"the issue of how to cut the lining, how to provide "ease" in the lining (ie: how to make the lining enough bigger than the knitting so the lining has some "give" to it), how to seam the lining and how to hem the lining" ?
Looking ahead, I am planning to line a knitted pouch with silk.
Hi Jason--you'd think it would be time, wouldn't you, since it has been several years, but I keep juggling that post around, waiting until some related material gets posted, so...sadly, it's all still on hold. One day. Sorry to be disappointing, TK
I'm working on an infant dress which includes silk lining. The dress is finished. Trying to line the dress was so frustrating until I read your blog instructions. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!
Post a Comment
Links to this post:
Create a Link
<< Home