Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Why bands and cuffs are wonky, and what to do about it (part 2 of "knitting better bands")

Includes 7 illustrations
The previous installment of "knitting better bands" showed that stitches along the edges of garments, stitches such as Wanda and Lon, stretch out because they have a lack of family support. Instead of being supported by 8 adjacent stitches as are stitches in the middle of a fabric like Norm, edge stitches are supported by only 5 stitches. In other words, edge stitches have a completely exposed edge along which there are no stabilizing stitches.

Without stabilizing stitches, edge stitches want to S-T-R-E-T-C-H out, and this is true no matter what KIND of stitches these are--ribbing, garter, seed stitch--the edge stitches will stretch regardless. So, when the edge of the FABRIC is the edge of the GARMENT, the garment edges--bands, cuffs--will be wonky and stretched out. The good news is that this is a structural problem: it's NOT YOU! No! It's the structure of the fabric edge to WANT to stretch and wonk-ify, and this is an unavoidable, built-in characteristic.

Now this problem is nothing new to knitting, and there are two solutions. The first solution is the most common: This is the oft-repeated advice to carefully adjust the amount of yarn IN the edge stitches. In other words, this is the "Goldilocks" solution: cast on (or off) your edge stitches "just right," not too tight and not too loose.

The obvious problem with this approach is that it can take years of experience to find that happy medium. Expert knitters can do this, but beginning and even intermediate knitters often RUIN their otherwise lovely garments trying to follow this advice.

When the error is NOT ENOUGH yarn supplied to the edge stitches, the result is a TOO TIGHT band. Who has not seen a lovely sock, the cuff of which is biting painfully into the flesh of its proud creator? Who has not seen a lovingly hand knit sweater with a neck cast off so tight as to be a nose scraper when dressing or undressing?When the error is TOO MUCH yarn supplied to the edge stitches, the result is a TOO-LOOSE band. Who has not seen a cuff which flops over the wearer's hand, no matter how often the cuff is pushed up onto the forearm? Who has not seen socks with saggy bands which will not stay up?If the Goldilocks solution of getting the fabric edge "just right" tends to be a challenge for non-expert knitters, what is the second alternative? Well, if edge stitches are inherently objectionable, do not make the fabric edge the garment edge. That's right--if edge stitches are icky, just banish the nasty little creatures from your garment edges.

Edge stitches like Wanda and Lon, with their precarious 5-stitch support system, are a poor choice to locate at the edge of a garment. It would be far better to have the garment edges be the far superior kind of stitches with an 8-stitch support system, the kind of stitches normally found inside the fabric--a stitch like Norm, of the previous post in this series.

I will admit that the first time you hear this solution, it sounds like a magic trick. Knitted fabric has to start somewhere, right? So how can the edge of a garment not be the edge stitches? In actuality, this is no kind of trick at all--the knitted FABRIC will have an edge, but that edge will NOT be the edge of the GARMENT. The stitches at the edge of the garment will be 8-stitch supported (or some equivalent) and will therefore be far less likely to want to stretch, bag, roll or sag.

There are several variations on this theme, and today we will start with the simplest: the rolled edge. Additional alternatives will be covered in future posts.

ROLLED EDGE

A rolled edge is nothing other than a few rows or rounds of stockinette stitch at the very edge of a garment. As you know if you have been knitting for any length of time at all, a wide piece of stockinette fabric will roll up lengthwise, showing the reverse stockinette side. (For the reasons this is so, click HERE.) This property of stockinette can be harnessed at the edge of a garment by knitting enough rows or rounds so that the casting on (or off) is completely hidden in the roll of the fabric. A loose cast on (or off) is desirable: it will never be seen, and, being loose, it cannot constrain the natural roll of the fabric. By this trick, the fabric edge is NOT the garment edge: The garment edge is an 8-stitch-supported rolled bit of stockinette.

If the stockinette fabric is not elastic enough to "hold in" the edge of the garment on its own, there is nothing to prevent you from adding a few rows or rounds of stockinette to border a very firm ribbing indeed. The ribbing will hold in the garment edge and the rolled edge of stockinette creates a border to the ribbing while eliminating all possibility of a too-tight or too-loose cast on (or off).

Three final points:
  • First, it is easy to modify any pattern whatsoever to begin and/or end with a stockinette roll. Simply cast on loosely and knit several rounds or rows (usually somewhere between 5 and 12) until you can tell for sure that the cast-on will be hidden in the roll of the fabric. Then, proceed to whatever instructions the pattern commences with--whether it be a band of ribbing, garter stitch, seed stitch, or whatever. At the cast-off edge, simply make the band as directed by the pattern, and then continue on with several rows or rounds of stockinette, casting off loosely after knitting a matching number rows/rounds to the cast on.
  • Second, a stockinette roll garment edge assures that the cast on edge will perfectly match the cast off edge, because it matters not at all whether the casting hidden in the fabric roll is a cast-on or a cast-off. This perfect match may be hard to obtain with other combinations of casts on and casts off.
  • Third, a rolled garment edge is extremely sturdy. Powerful forces make stockinette want to curl. As anyone who has tried to block the curl out of a stockinette fabric knows, that is an impossible task. By harnessing this powerful curl, you actually protect the fabric edge. The curl is relatively broad--far broader, at any rate, than the single row of stitches at a cast-on or -off edge. This relatively broad edge means that a slightly different part of the curled fabric presents each time the garment rubs against wrist or counter or coat or pants leg. Compare this broad rolled edge to an exposed cast-on or -off edge: the unsupported yarns in the cast edge stretch out and so wear away on one another. Also, the same part of the cuff is always exposed to being rubbed, which accounts for the relatively common sight of frayed and running cuffs and bands, particularly in children's clothing. By contrast, rolled edges will typically last the life of the garment, even for utility garments such as hand-me-down children's mittens.
Below is a little gallery of stockinette rolls "in person," showing how effective this simple little trick can be on garments ranging from classy garments knit in luxury fibers to utility garments like booties, mittens and hats.

A GALLERY OF ROLLED EDGES

1. (below) This simple silk garment is knit with rolled edges. As you can see, the edge of the garment is not the edge of the fabric--the stockinette roll meets the wrist and lower edge some rows in from the fabric edge, resulting in 8-stitch supported garment edge stitches. Strictly speaking, this garment does not have bands, the rolled edges take the place of bands. This garment is not a new one--it has been extensively worn, and the rolled edges have held up very well over time.
2. (below) This baby bootie has a rolled edge: very cute, very simple, very practical. There will be no struggle to insert floppy little baby feet into this generous cuff, and the rolled cuff has maintained its shape through countless washings. (Note the tie-lace--the stockinette roll is not sufficient to hold the bootie on, because it does not "draw in" like a ribbing does.)
3. (below) This hat band demonstrates a rolled edge as a border to ribbing. The hat is held on the wearer's head with an ordinary ribbing, yet the edge of the ribbing cannot be cast off too tightly due to the rolled edging. The wearer of this hat will not complain of ears feeling pinned to their head!
4. (below) These mitten cuffs also show a rolled edge as a border to ribbing. Snowballs, sled runners, zippers, velcro, mitten clips, teeth (used to pull on that second mitten) and all around little-boy tomfoolery would all spell doom for a simple cast-on (or off) edge: these wear out before the end of winter (at least around here--Wisconsin). By contrast, the broad curl of a rolled edge protects the lower cuff edge through many wearings (and wearers).
5. (below) "Fishsocks." The broad rolled borders makes the very edge of these socks stand out, and the ribbing draws them in again, giving this type of socks a "fishy" profile. They fit very well, however--the ribbing stretches to match the diameter of the rolled border when the socks are put on. Kids find these socks easy to draw on--the rolled border provides a handle. * * *
This post is part 2 of a series. The other parts are:
*How to knit better bands and cuffs, part 1: Opera and Soap Opera (November 1, 2007)
*How to knit better bands and cuffs, part 3: Hems and facings:(November 22, 2007)
*How to knit better bands and cuffs, part 4: Knitting shut hems and facings (December 9, 2007)
*How to knit better bands and cuffs, part 5: Sewing shut hems and facings (December 23, 2007)
*How to knit better bands and cuffs, part 6: Your steam iron: a mighty weapon in the fight against curling and flipping (December 25, 2007)
*How to knit better bands and cuffs, part 7: Zig-zag bands (December 29, 2007)
*How to knit better bands and cuffs, part 8: Provisional tail method of 1x1 tubular cast on (January 11, 2008)
*How to knit better bands and cuffs, part 9: Tubular cast off for 1x1 ribbing (it's pretty) (January 15, 2008)
*How to knit better bands and cuffs: the wrap-up (January 23, 2008)

--TECHknitter
You have been reading TECHknitting on: rolled cuff and band edges

12 Comments:

Anonymous martha in mobile said...

Have I asked you to write a book? I intend to after reading every post, and now cannot remember if I have. Your descriptions, illustrations and explanations are so sane that I feel optimistic and hopeful.

November 14, 2007 at 3:59 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I just recently found your blog. What a great site. I've been a knitter for over 50 years and taught knitting many of those years. I love it that there is always something new or improved to discover. Keep blogging!!

November 14, 2007 at 8:09 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I recently became enamored with the rolled stockinette edge. It is satisfying to learn that it is also durable. I learn something new every time I read you blog. Thank you.
-punkin

November 14, 2007 at 10:06 PM  
Blogger Dove Knits said...

This is really great. I just skimmed for now, but I'm gonna go through and read carefully. I'm designing a sweater for the husband, and, well, I want the edges and bands and stuff nice. So, thanks!

November 14, 2007 at 10:40 PM  
Blogger CK said...

Hi,

I'm sitting on the edge of my seat here. You see, I'm very dissatisfied with the second stitch next to the edge stitches stretching out in length on every second row. I know it's in the nature of the knitting and this is not so apparent when the edges are to be sewn together. However, when the edges are meant to be seen, like on a scarf, for example, it just looks very unappealing.

I'm eagerly awaiting your suggestions on how to minimize the stretching.

Thank you so much for all your work that you put into sharing all this information.

Regards,

CK

November 16, 2007 at 5:44 PM  
Anonymous kmkat said...

I'm not a fan of the look of rolled edges that seem to be appearing more commonly in knitting patterns, but now that you have pointed out their advantages I am rethinking my position. Durability is a very desirable quality. Thanks!

November 16, 2007 at 7:56 PM  
Blogger Michelle at Boulderneigh said...

Thanks for the educational and encouraging post. I have gotten the impression that rolled edges are deemed too casual for dressier items, but the silk sweater in a finer gauge defies this view -- as do the other items!

November 18, 2007 at 7:40 PM  
Anonymous b said...

I was just about to cast on a pair of mittens--now I'm going to give them a rolled edge! Thanks for the tip.

November 20, 2007 at 5:57 AM  
Blogger ossipeeknitter said...

Thanks for the rolled edge advice. My daughters have a couple of sweaters that require re-knitting the cuffs every 2 yrs or so. (Happy that they like the sweaters so much that the cuffs wear out but enough is enough!)Next time the cuffs will end with a tiny rolled edge. Fingers crossed!

January 19, 2009 at 12:57 PM  
Blogger ossipeeknitter said...

I just finished knitting a child's gansey, on tiny needles using 5 ply gansey wool (I'm a glutton for punishement.) I decided to try a rolled edge at the neck & cuffs following the 2x2 ribbing. When I tried rolling the neck edge, the rolled edge was much too wide, even if I really stretched the ribbing. So on the cuff, I decreased a stitch every 6 stitches. This decrease tamed the rolled edge, now to re-knit the neck edge. I'm not sure why the original stitch count resulted in a too wide edge. Any ideas? The sweater was knit, as typical with this style, quite firmly. To "get" the gauge, I wound up using size 0 for the body & size 000 for the edges. (Gauge = 31 st over 4")Would the tightness of the knit fabric cause my problem? I'm pretty sure I've knit a rolled edge following the ribbing without the ruffling that happened on this sweater.

January 28, 2009 at 3:27 PM  
Blogger --TECHknitter said...

Hi Ossipeeknitter: Ribbing, especially when it is knit firmly, "draws in." I have garments at hand which feel like they have elastic in them, because the ribbing was knit so firmly. When a "drawing in" fabric is placed next to one which does not draw in, such as stockinette, the result can look almost like ruffles. I think your idea of decreasing the stockinette is a good idea, perhaps accompanied with a slight increase in the last row of the ribbing.

--TK

January 28, 2009 at 7:40 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Techknitter,
Not too sure about increasing at the end of the ribbing. I am thinking that instead of moving down the needle size for the neck edge ribbing maybe if I used the body size needles for the ribbing and then moved down the needle size for the final rolled edge...I think I'll do some experimenting first. Frogging & picking up stitches is no fun in true navy especially at this gauge. I'm a little concerned about decreasing at the neck for child's sweater especially one this firmly knit. (Don't want my grandson to tear off his nose putting on the sweater.)

I want to thank you so much for your blog. The work must be incredibly time consuming & I greatly appreciate it!

February 1, 2009 at 3:35 PM  

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