Friday, January 26, 2007

Joining circular knitting--the 3-in-1 TECHjoin!

includes a how-to

Joining the first round of casting-on for circular knitting can get ugly. There is a horrid loose stitch where the join occurs, as well as a "jog." The tail gets unwound and makes the loose stitch even looser, while working in the tail has the potential to make a mess of the cast-on edge.
click picture

It need not be this way.

Here is a join for circular knitting which avoids that horrid loose stitch, eliminates that nasty little "jog" AND works in your tail, three tricks in one! Here is the TECHknitting 3-in-1 TECHjoin!
click picture

HOW TO

1. Begin with long-tail casting-on. Long-tail casting on actually consists of a foundation row AND a knitted first row. This double row is substantial and so is easier to keep "sunny side up" when joining.

2. For the first stitch of long-tail casting-on, do not use a slip knot. Instead, use a simple loop.(more info about the simple loop in the long tail post)

3. Make the cast-on row as follows:
click picture
  • Make the first stitch as a simple loop over one needle, not two.
  • Make the next two stitches as ordinary long-tail cast-on stitches, again looping over one needle, not two. (more info about casting on over two needles in the long-tail post)
  • After you've created the first three stitches, create additional cast-on stitches by looping over two needles until you have TWO LESS stitches than you need, total.
  • Create the next two cast-on stitches over only one needle.
  • ADD AN ADDITIONAL stitch, again casting on over only one needle.
  • Count your stitches. You should have one stitch more than you need, and the first and last three stitches should have been cast on over only one needle (not two)
  • In the photo above, the first stitch cast on (extreme right) is made by a simple loop. There are 23 stitches cast on, for a 22 stitch tube.

4. Create the join and the knit first round as follows:
  • Make sure that the stitches are "sunny side up" (not twisted).
  • Pull out one needle so all the stitches lie on one needle. (For dpn's, distribute evenly among 3 or 4 needles.) Arrange your work so the cast-on stitches to knit first lie on your LEFT needle.
  • Slip the first stitch (the one you made by the simple loop method) from the left needle to the right needle WITHOUT knitting it.
  • Starting with the second stitch, knit all the way around.
  • When you come to the end, knit the last stitch together with that first slipped stitch (in knitting parlance, knit 2 together, abbreviated k2tog).
  • SLIP THE NEXT STITCH (which was the second stitch you created, and the first stitch you knitted).
  • OPTIONAL: If you want to mark the beginning of the round, insert a stitch marker after this most recently slipped stitch.
  • Catch the tail yarn and hold it together with the standing yarn (standing yarn=the yarn coming from the ball). Knit the next three stitches with BOTH yarns, then drop the tail yarn and continue with the ball yarn.
Ta da! The right number of stitches, no loose join, no jog, and the tail end is already "worked in." A real 3-in-1 trick!

Are you nervous about trimming off the tail end? Wait until after you've washed and blocked the garment. This helps the tail felt into the fabric a bit more. For non-felting yarn, such as superwash wool or acrylic, consider working the tail in even further by picking it up on the second round and knitting it together with the standing yarn for an additional three stitches as you come past it on round 2.


--TECHknitter

27 Comments:

Anonymous knotingale said...

This is great. Now, can you explain the 'jogless' join method for stripes knit in the round? I can't understand the instructions I've found thus far.
Thanks!

January 26, 2007 9:17 PM  
Anonymous kmkat said...

Bookmarked this post. I HATE that jog in the join; I get rid of it by surreptitious sewing when I weave in the long tail. But it will be so much more elegant not to have the jog in the first place. Thanks!

January 27, 2007 9:50 AM  
Anonymous Angie said...

Marvelous explanation! You have taken the time to EXPLAIN what it means to *join* and make it understandable. (I probably would have just settled for an explanation.) I never knew what to do when they said "join" in a pattern and I couldn't find a description outside of Kat Bordhi's. Thank you!

January 27, 2007 7:06 PM  
Blogger Jenny said...

Alright! I just had the opportunity to use this join for the first time, and it worked slick! Other than a tendency for me to end up with the 'simple loop' beginning and/or the slipped stitch part of the join on the wrong needle... but if you remember my previous comments, this probably is not only unremarkable, but belongs in the 'go figure' column.

:-p

February 28, 2007 3:07 PM  
Blogger BW said...

Plan on trying this for my next project.

I love what you have put together here (your site). It is well laid out and you give a ton of great information.

Thanks!

April 1, 2007 6:48 AM  
Blogger Julie said...

I love you. Will you marry me? Wait a minute... let me check with my husband... He says fine. Will you?

May 4, 2007 5:44 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I've found that switching the last and first stitches in place (using a crochet hook to draw one over the other if necessary) gives me the most perfect join with little trouble and no need to decrease. Whcihever method you use to decrease the jog, it will help if there are several stitches from one end of the caston row on the opposite needle, whereas if there is only one, it will stretch out very easily.
Sarah

July 5, 2007 8:28 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Great explanation. Would this work with Magic Loop? I tried it (admittedly, I'm new at Magic Loop) and I had a lot of trouble trying to figure out how to get the first cast-on stitch and the last cast-on stitch close enough to be knit together.

Thanks again!

September 18, 2007 10:23 AM  
Blogger --TECHknitter said...

Hi anonymous--the 3-in-1 join will work with magic loop--just tug the loop of magic loop out between 2 already knit stitches, somewhere down the line from the beginning/end point. In other words, transfer the location of the loop to a point away from where you want the beginning stitch to lie next to the end stitch. Thanks for writing.

--TECHknitter

September 26, 2007 11:44 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

This is Anonymous again. Thank you for that explanation on using this for Magic Loop. I'm ready to try it!

Love your explanations because they are "scientific" and go back to the basic principles of knitting. And, your illustrations are really helpful.

September 27, 2007 10:30 AM  
Anonymous Dixie Ipsit said...

Question about the placement of the stitch marker with the 3-in-1 join. I plan to do a hat with 2x2 ribbing. I cast on (including 1 extra stitch), slip the first stitch, knit the last and first stitch (the slipped one) together, slip the next stitch and then place the marker. If that second stitch is part of a pattern, like the 2x2 ribbing, won't the marker be in the wrong place? It would be in the middle of a 2?

Thanks for any enlightenment.

November 12, 2007 9:21 AM  
Anonymous Péitseoga said...

EXACTLY what i was looking for, thanks! and my mum knits LOADS of socks, must show it to her, too!

January 10, 2008 8:19 AM  
Anonymous Dixie Ipsit said...

This is a little late to the party on the 3-in-1 join, but ---

When you slip the stitches, do you slip knitwise or purlwise? Or does it make a difference?

Many thanks for all the explanation here.

April 28, 2008 2:35 PM  
Blogger --TECHknitter said...

Hi Dixie Ipsit:

You slip them purlwise (open, untwisted). Thanks for asking. --TK

April 28, 2008 10:29 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thank you! this is the first time I've been able to find instructions of any kind on joining to work in the round. I'll be coming back to this page until the join is memorized.

May 28, 2008 8:42 PM  
Blogger lulu said...

should you always knit the first row after the CO row (even in garter stitch or ribbing)? Thanks~!

July 4, 2008 9:34 AM  
Blogger --TECHknitter said...

Hi Lulu--If you are using a long tail casting on (such as is used in this particular join) it is not necessary to knit the first row for garter or ribbing. This is because the long tail cast on is actually the same thing as a row of backwards loops AND the first row of knitting, combined. In other words, it is not necessary to knit the first row, because you already HAVE knit it by creating the cast on with a first row included. Thanks for asking. TECHknitter

July 26, 2008 11:59 PM  
Blogger Trishwah said...

I looked in your long tail cast on post and didn't find the answer but maybe I missed. Anyway. Here's the question:

What size needles do you use when casting onto two needles? Are they the same size as what you will be knitting with?

If yes, presumably you would do that to make the CO stretchier. But I've found that spacing out my CO stitches does a better job of creating a stretchy CO than working with two needles or a larger needle.

November 14, 2008 3:12 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thank you SO much, I was tearing my hair out about how to join my circle!!

December 17, 2008 7:00 AM  
Blogger Beverly said...

OMG, I have been knitting for 6 years and didn't know there was a better way to join in the round. I am so glad that I stumbled across this blog!

January 1, 2009 9:02 AM  
Anonymous Delia said...

Help! What about invisible joins for circular knitting after a tubular cast-on? This method still leaves something to be desired in that situation.

February 4, 2009 5:07 PM  
Blogger --TECHknitter said...

Hi Delia:

The easiest way I know to make a nice join after a tubular cast on is to make the tubular cast-on on straight needles, get through another row or two, and then sew up the tiny little seam with the yarn from the cast on. I've messed around with other methods, but this one is the best I've found.

Thanks for writing

-TK

February 4, 2009 7:31 PM  
Anonymous Oiyi said...

OMG, I always hated the jog on the circ join. Thank you so much. This worked perfectly.

April 15, 2009 1:11 AM  
Blogger Karen T. said...

Does this note about working in superwash tails mean that we knit in the tail for six stitches on round 2, or do you mean to pick it up for the additional three stitches on round 3? Thanks!

"For non-felting yarn, such as superwash wool or acrylic, consider working the tail in even further by picking it up on the second round and knitting it together with the standing yarn for an additional three stitches as you come past it on round 2."

November 2, 2009 11:49 AM  
Blogger --TECHknitter said...

Hi Karen: I actually meant that the three stitches ought to be worked in again on for a further 3 stitches on round 3, but didn't say it very well, did I? The idea is to break up the doubled stitches so they're not all perched right next to one another in the same round, thus drawing the eye to that spot.

Thanks for writing. --TK

November 2, 2009 2:37 PM  
Blogger Ronda said...

I'm a bit confused with step #4. You say "# Arrange your work so the cast-on stitches to knit first lie on your LEFT needle.
# Slip the first stitch (the one you made by the simple loop method) from the left needle to the right needle WITHOUT knitting it.
# Starting with the second stitch, knit all the way around."
If I arrange it so that the simple loop stitch is at the top of needle so that I can slip it to the right needle, then my yarn ends are at the bottom of the left needle. How do I then start knitting with the yarn at the bottom? I must be missing something.

November 7, 2009 1:56 PM  
Blogger Ronda said...

I was missing something, I figured it out! I was practicing this with only a small number of stitches, so my knitting wasn't going around the whole length of the circular needle. I cast on the right number and it worked! thanks!

November 7, 2009 8:58 PM  

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