Needle felting tricks for knittersCutting Steeks, Fastening Floats & Touching up Color Knitting

Needle felting is a trick worked on dry fabric, which melds together woolen fiber. I say woolen because actual wool from the back of a living sheep really is the only fiber with with structure and body for this form of fabric-torture. And torture it is: as used in knitting, needle felting involves plunging very sharp barbed needles through fabric to draw wisps of the top layer down into the bottom layer. These wisps serve to bind the two layers together. 

In the art of hand-knitting, needle felting is often associated with the trick of steeking (cutting) a fabric.

Needle-felted steek, cut and folded back

It is also useful to hold floats from color-knitting onto the fabric-back.

Elephant with  floats needle-felted to fabric back

We'll get to these uses, and others as well, but first, the basics. 

Felting needles and pad

There are several types of felting needles. All feature a wickedly sharp point atop a barbed shaft. 

Close up of Clover brand needle felting tool needles. Click here to enlarge.

The barbs are arranged so they catch wisps of wool on the downward stroke only. When withdrawn, the barbs do not catch any wisps. When one layer of woolen fabric is felted to another below, the downward-drawn wisps are permanently parked in the lower layer. These wisps are what hold (felt) the two fabrics together. 

The safest way to use a felting tool is with a pad beneath. This may resemble a sponge or hairbrush. I find the hairbrush type more useful. Either way, the fabric to be felted is laid over the pad and the needles plunge through the fabric, then harmlessly into the pad rather than your fingers--less blood that way. Again, these needles are wicked sharp. They deserve the same respect as a sewing needle, or more, being barbed.

Felting needles are generally held in a pen- or knob-type holder, and you can usually select how many of the available holders to fill with needles. The felting pen above comes with three needles, as shown, but by unscrewing the case, you can choose to work with only one or two needles at a time. 

Wool

Real wool from the back of a live sheep gives the best results. This is because of wool's scaly nature at the microscopic level. 

Wool (left two images) compared with other fibers

With wear and pressure, scales of wool catch on one another, almost like the hooks of velcro. Since even the thinnest wisps of wool are scaly like this, pushing a wisp from a top layer into a bottom layer "velcro's" the layers together. This micrograph comparison of wool to other fibers--especially the synthetic fiber at far right--shows that pushing wisps of non-wool fiber into one another would not have the same catching effect because these other fibers have few or no scales to catch together. 

To further improve the "velcro" effect, steaming wool makes wool's scales open like a pine cone, causing further interlocking. So, needle felting through steamy fabric increases the effect, while steaming afterwards strengthens the bond between layers. Therefore, although needle felting is called a dry fabric technique (as opposed to its cousin, wet felting) a little water in the form of steam vapor really helps the process along. If you've tried needle felting before and haven't found much benefit, try again through a steamy fabric. There is a big difference. 

Needle felting is really only speeding up a process which would happen naturally as scaly woolen fibers rub on one another. However! Rubbing operates at one time scale and metal barbs at another. It would take a LOT of rubbing to create the felting which needles produce in a short time. Overdoing needle felting on hand knits can felt the fibers enough to undo stitch definition, just as wet felting does. Super-overdoing can actually cut right through the fabric, especially on thinner yarns. Felting thin yarn takes a LOT less plunging than the worsted weight I used in the demos below. Bottom line: proceed slowly, practice on a swatch. 

Needle felting steeks

A steek is a trick for slitting an opening (usually a front opening or armholes) into a garment which was knit circularly. In other words, a sweater might be knit in a tube right to the top, with the front and armhole openings being slit open afterwards with a pair of scissors. For more background, here's a link about steeking in general--the "why," plus, advantages and disadvantages. 

As you can imagine, the main trick with a steek is to prevent the knitting adjoining the cut from coming loose. This is where needle felting can contribute. 

The theory of needle felting steeks is that felted fabric cannot unravel. The practice is to felt the steek "bridge" thoroughly before cutting. After all these years, I'm still anxious about cutting hand knitting, so when felting, I also stabilize the edges of a steek with slip stitching. Also, I find it easier to felt "within the lines." However, you may be bolder. If you choose to felt without first slip stitching, skip down to here. 

Below photo shows slip stitching stabilization in progress, demoed on on a single color swatch. The work is done with a thin tough yarn called heel reinforcement yarn, and I chose red for visibility: usually you would use a color-matched yarn.  If heel reinforcement yarn is not at hand, consider  unspinning splits from a heavier yarn.

Using the crochet hook, a loop of red has just been drawn through to the front from the back of the fabric. 

A new loop is drawn through from the back, one stitch down along the same column. Now there are two loops around the barrel of the crochet hook. 

 

The new loop is drawn through the old. Now there is only one loop around the hook. 

The cycle repeats, each new loop being first drawn through from back to front one stitch down the same column, then through the old loop already on the crochet hook. In this way, both sides of the steek are reinforced with slip stitching. The red yarn starts and ends by drawing through a loop of yarn from back to front, then threading the tail over the bottom (or top) edge, through the loop. Pulling the tail tightens the loop over the edge. This permanently fastens down the tail, shown protruding, lower edge of above photo. 

Here is a color sample, slip stitched in the same way. In this case, I also ran a thin split of white yarn up the cut line as a marking. The distance between the center marking and the stabilizing slip stitches is dictated by your appetite for danger. I allowed two-and-a-half columns on either side of the cut-column. Fewer columns would be less bulky, but with a perhaps higher danger of pulling loose under stress.

Two-color knitting, front (left) and back, slip stitched in red, with a cut-line marked in white yarn.

With the steek reinforced, it is time to felt. If you skipped the part about reinforcement, this video is where you rejoin. 

Not shown on the video is the fact that, just before felting, the fabric was made soft and steamy with a shot-of-steam iron held several inches above the fabric. A hand-held steamer would work also, if you have one. 

Transcript. Here is the process of needle felting. This is the needle felter. And you see the (needle felting) pad below. You simply insert the needle felting tool into the fabric from the front, being careful to stay within the lines of the stabilization. You plunge the needle rapidly, back and forth through the fabric.

Despite being repeatedly plunged, the front fabric face features hardly any loss of stitch definition.

The same is not true of the back, which is very fuzzy. Right along the cut-line, it's almost hard to tell exactly which color is where, so melded have they become. To get to this point, the fabric was steamed several times and plunged repeatedly. Although most intense along the cut line, the felting does extend the entire width of the steek-bridge within the red stabilization. 

The cut comes next.

Transcript. Now we come the action shot of cutting the steek. I think it's very handy to have that white cutting line. If you look at the edge of the fabric, you can see how felted it is. And, here’s the inside. Even if I run my finger along here, no edges are coming loose. So this is a really solid and stable edge. A little bit of the fluff is coming out (including the cutting line!) but the edge itself is not disintegrating in any way.

After cutting open the steek, the next step is very often picking up stitches to work a border, or bands, or a sleeve. These stitches would be picked up outside of the slip stitching, along the red dotted line. (In this context, "outside" means NOT between the slip stitches and the cut edge.)

The pick up line is shown on the front of the fabric, one half-column away from the stabilizing stitches. However, it could be located  further. 

Needle felting in steeking has another use also, and that is, fastening down the cut flap. At left in below photo, the previously felted edge is pinned back. Once pinned, it was steamed and then needle felted. Pins removed, it has now bonded to the fabric-back in the folded-back position, at right in below photo. It has formed a "self facing."

Left: pinned. Right: pins removed, steamed and then felted in place, the flap has formed a "self facing." 
The felted-down flap is called a "facing," because it provides a smooth face on the inside of a garment opening. It is a "self-facing" because the fabric itself was folded over to form the facing. This is in contrast to an "applied facing," meaning a separate fabric is knitted to act as the facing.

Seen edge-on, the stabilizing stitches show in the fold. If this were to be the actual fabric edge in real life, I would have stabilized using color-matched yarn. 

By the way: if you had wanted to pick up stitches along the red dotted line of three photos back, you would have picked those up before folding and felting the self-facing. In this way, the facing would hide the picked up stitches. Also, the flap would fold back at the pick-up line, not at the slip-stitch line. 

How tight is the bond in the fold? When new-made, it could be ripped apart if you wanted to. In that sense, felting between layers is not as permanent as felting before cutting. However, with wear (and perhaps a bit more steaming) the fabric layers eventually meld so they're nearly impossible to rip apart. 

Needle felting color knitting

Fastening Floats

In color knitting, the contrasting color or background yarn not in use runs along the back of the fabric in loose strands called "floats." A great deal of knitting ingenuity has been devoted to different methods for fastening floats--especially long floats--to the back fabric face. However, needle felting isn't usually considered in this context. This oversight is a pity because needle felting can hold floats in place. In fact, if you think about it, holding down the floats is exactly what needle felting is doing when cutting steeks in color knitting.

This video compares two little elephants.* The one at left features felted floats, on the other, the floats are not yet felted. The longest float is 14 stitches. There are also 12's, 10's, and 8's. 

Transcript: This is the back of two little elephants. On this one (right), the floats are not felted down. I can easily insert the knitting needle under here, and if I stroke the back of the fabric, you can see that the floats are independent. These are some quite long floats: these are 14’s, this is a 12, these are 10’s and 8’s in here. On this side (left) the floats have been felted down. If I stroke the back of the (left) fabric, the floats don’t come up. They are attached, even this very long one here, this 14. And these 10’s. And this is the advantage of felting down long floats. If a kid put this little garment on, they wouldn’t catch their fingers and toes in it, like they would if this here (right, unfelted) was the finished product.

Flattening fabric

Here is a photo of the fronts after felting. Turned right-side out, the felted elephant is at right. Another advantage can now be seen: the contrasting color stitches of the felted elephant are much smoother against the background fabric than with the unfelted elephant at left. Felting has flattened the "fabric breaks," meaning, the little valleys along the edge of a linear color pattern where a column of cc stitches rises up just where the column of background stitches dives down. Compare particularly along the back columns, under the tails. 

Felting has also flattened out the fabric overall. Compare, for example, the felted elephant's stomach to that of the unfelted. Both elephants have been steam blocked. Yet even so, the felted one lies smoother against the background stitches. 

Right elephant has been flattened to the background fabric via needle felting. Click to enlarge

Flattening out works just as well for that one contrast color stitch which just persists in sticking up. Perhaps the yarn got thicker just at that one spot, perhaps the tension went off. Needle felting will tame its stubborn little ways so its lays flat.

 Correcting tension--loose floats 

Loose floats make for bad tension. Needle felting can tighten up that occasional loose float. Working from the front while tugging at the loose loop on the back, adjust the tension until it looks correct. Then, flip the fabric over. Finally, pull each loop into a nearby column.

Below left: double-pointed needle inserts under two loose loops on the elephant's back. Center: crochet hook draws the loose bottom loop into a nearby column. Right:crochet hook draws the loose top loop into a nearby column. 

Below left: knitting needles point to where the loops have been worked into the column. Right: the same column, lightly felted. Once felted, the loose loops meld into the column, never to come loose again. 

Surface-felting

This is a trick for improving diagonal lines in color knitting. When knitting a diagonal, the stitches may not join into a smooth line. Often, the arm of the neighboring stitch gets in the way. Result: two same-color stitches don't meet on the kitty-corner. 

Very delicate work with a single felting needle can solve this problem by surface-felting together the two stitches which ought to touch. Use a single needle to tease together a few wisps from each stitch in turn, until the stitches do join over the gap. This kind of touch-up especially helps make knitted alphabet letters more legible. 

Close-up of the dark letter "O" before, during, and after surface felting over an intervening white stitch-arm. Red arrows locate the intervening white arm. Blue arrows show the path of a single felting needle passing through two dark kitty-corner stitches as it travels towards upper left. In the rightmost photo, the dark yarn is fuzzed over the gap. The diagonal is now continuous. 

Improving the letter "O" via needle felting.

Left: gap in diagonal (red arrows). 

Center: inserting felting needle along fabric surface. 

Right: gap covered.

(I also fuzzed the O's  left corner somewhat.) 

And, speaking of alphabet letters, knitting letters and words is what the next post is about. That will be published just before inauguration day.

Enjoy what's left of 2024. See you again on January 19th of the new year.

--TK

Questions? Feedback? Contact me at 

Blue Sky  @techknitter.bsky.social or  

talk to me about this post on Ravelry TECHknitter forum

* Elephants adapted from a free Ravelry sock pattern designed by Jenny Lorefors.

Splitting (unspinning) Yarn thinner yarn for utility or color work

Two 2-ply splits from
a four-ply yarn

Thinner yarn in matching color is always useful to hem a sweater, sew down a neck or seam with less bulk. Color combos of thinner yarns create beautiful segues and ombrés.

Both these tricks require thinner yarns, and that's today's post: harvesting thinner strands of yarn by UN-spinning. It isn't hard, but a few tricks with weight and gravity help tame kinking and tangling, those enemies of splitting.

Yarn is spun by twisting together strands of fiber. A single strand of twisted yarn is a "ply." Many popular yarns are called "two-ply" or "four-ply" because they are made of two- or four plies twisted together. All this twisting--first each ply separately, then all the plies together--stores a great deal of energy in the yarn, energy we have to get rid of for the unplied yarn to lay smooth.

Geek Note:  This linked photo shows some plied yarns are made of other plied yarns. Further, number of plies does not correlate to the overall thickness of the yarn, because any one ply can be thick or thin.)  

Some silky yarns let you simply pull plies out, but sticky wools need help. This post shows splitting a sticky 4-ply wool into two thinner 2-ply lengths.This same process can be used to split out single plies, as well. Weights are used to subtract twist, an exactly opposite process to spinning, where a weighted drop spindle adds twist. 

Materials: 

--A length of yarn. If this length is your height or less, work directly with the two ends. If this length is longer than you are tall, maybe make the yarn up into a mini-hank, as shown in this post. There is also a video of how to do this. This kind of mini-hank easily center-pulls, but does not unwrap from the tail end. Alternatively, simply snap a rubber band around a small butterfly of yarn. 

--If the length you want is longer than you are tall, a staircase is handy.

--Three crochet hooks, these are the weights. Alternative weights include binder clips or any tall, narrow, not-too heavy kitchen utensils, wooden spoons, perhaps, or chopsticks.

Weights

You could attach the weights to the yarn using regular knots, but easiest is with a slip knot, so here's a quick refresher. 

A slip knot is just a loop through a granny-knot. For splitting yarn, you want the loop to be self-tightening towards the length, not towards the  end. In other words, the  loop of the running yarn  slips towards the long part of the stand. If done right, as the weight comes onto the crochet hook (or wooden spoon or whatever) the loop tightens up to hold the weight securely. 

A slip knot's advantage is how it pulls out of the split yarn at the end, leaving no trace. A regular knot works too, but then you have to unpick the knot or cut it off. 

Set up

Start by splitting out several inches of yarn as shown below. If splitting a short length, it doesn't matter which end you split. If using a mini-hank, split out the center-pull end.

The yarn here is being unspun by twisting it clockwise. But, some yarns require to be spun counter-clockwise to be untwisted. Within seconds of starting, it'll be obvious which way to go. 

Now there are three ends: the tail end of the yarn to be unspun, as well as the two splits. Using slip knots (or regular knots) attach a crochet hook to each 2-ply split. To the other end of the yarn length, slip-knot the third hook. Again, the direction of the slip is away from the tail, so as weight comes on, the knots tighten. 

A longer length of yarn is being split here, so the excess is stored out of the way in a mini-hank to prevent tangling, with additional lengths pulled out as needed. 

If only splitting a shorter amount, the set up is the same but there's no need to make up a mini-hank, because there is no excess yarn to keep out of the way. Simply attach the three weights to the opposite ends of an un-hanked length of yarn.

Now, at the top of a staircase, toss the whole assembly over the edge, keeping hold of the 2-ply splits. With a split hanging from each hand, and the unspilt yarn hanging in the middle, keep untwisting by simply pulling the halves apart gently. If wooly bits catch between the splits, break them loose gently with a forefinger. Hold the yarns far enough apart so they don't tangle. For longer lengths, you can see that a mini-hank is useful: it stays compact and together, but easily center-pulls additional lengths as needed. If using a yarn butterfly rubber-banded together, also pull out lengths as needed, out from under the rubber band. At the end, haul the separated strands to the top of the stairs, remove the hooks and all the slip knots come out easily. 

If you look carefully at the video, you see the two splits each twist in an opposite direction from the main ball. All that twisted-in energy is coming out, right before your eyes, with no tangling or kinking.

Use

As running yarn. For use as a running yarn, you'll end up with two lengths of thin yarn, each as long as the original: a four-foot length yields two splits of four foot each. Felting or otherwise joining these together yields a double-length strand--an eight foot strand. Therefore, untwist a length only half as long as needed, then join the two halves together for one full-length strand. 

This thinner yarn will be more fragile, but, like other fragile yarns (e.g.: Shetland, Lopi) gains strength as it is knit or crocheted. This is because working fragile yarn in loops doubles it back up again. Therefore, splits are usually strong enough for utility use--in three-needle bind off, for example, or a slip-stitched (crocheted) seam. Just go easy with the tension, especially around the felted join. 

Segues in color knitting or ombrés. Going beyond utility, a pretty trick with splits is holding two different-color strands together for segues. Just a few rows or rounds in two-colored splits erase the line between stripes in different colors. This is especially good to erase the line between two similar colors, such as a gradient set. 

A more intense use is to create ombrés by working mixed splits close together, as with this letter "B."  

Ombré created by working rows in different color splits. Where there is only one color, two splits of that color were used.

In a future post, there will be more about knitting letters and words--a specialized form of knitting called "banner knitting."

As sewing yarn, split yarn is obviously fragile. First, it is thinner, and second, it becomes somewhat unspun--once separated out of the main ball, the fibers are not as tightly packed together. When using thinner yarn for sewing (e.g.: mattress stitch, hemming or buttons) split out short lengths: shorter than you would for thread.  Also, push the needle through (perhaps with a thimble) rather than pulling on the needle. Shorter lengths and less pulling = less stress on the yarn.

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Edit, a few days after posting. 

Originally, I wrote that for large amounts of thinner yarn, it would be best to acquire it some other way. In the meanwhile, however, a reader sent interesting feedback on the TECHknitting Ravelry forum, about how in their projects, they routinely split out large amounts of yarn. The link is here, with follow-up here. So, if you do want to split out large amounts of yarn, check out these comments (especially applicable to yarns loosely plied together such as cotton or embroidery-floss like yarns). 

--TK

Other posts about yarn handling:

Yarn organization for color knitting

Quickly unkinking yarn with a steam iron (video)

Center-pull balls of yarn, wound up by hand (with video)

Winding a Skein into a ball of yarn (with video)

* * *

Questions? Feedback? Contact me at 

Blue Sky  @techknitter.bsky.social or  

talk to me about this post on Ravelry TECHknitter forum

Winding a skein into a ball of yarn

All skeined up, that yarn looks innocent, doesn't it? 

What, me tangle? Never!

But when you first start in with skeins, it seems danger lurks. Perhaps that innocent looking skein will snarl into an awful tangle, never to come right. 

...snarl into an awful tangle...

Let's take the monster by the tail and see what happens. Poke the tail (now colored red) into and through the skein. The skein comes undone in stages.

Result: a large wheel of yarn.

This wheel is made up of many many loops, tied together at one or more places along the perimeter. And this is where things really can go south. You see, each strand must be sorted to lay smooth among its neighbors while the center must be absolutely clear. Loops crossing from one side to the other, strands heading the wrong way out of a tie: these can cause endless grief.

Strands and loops crossing over the middle must be smoothed back into place, heading in the correct direction out of the tie

After all is smooth and tidy, it's time to mount the yarn-wheel on something: a chair back, perhaps, or a yarn swift (more about swifts, below). The important thing is don't unknot the ties until the wheel is safely slung around some object which permanently prevents crossing over the middle.

What you sling the yarn around depends on what you have. The quickest set-up is a swift of some kind and a yarn-winder. But for many (many!) years I had neither, and used a chair-back to hold yarn as I wound balls by hand. TECHknitting has already shown how to wind balls by hand, and the yarn for winding is supplied as you lift the strands, one at a time, over the chair back.

Use what you have

Swifts are basically arms of some kind which hold the yarn-wheel and (swiftly!) spin as you pull on the running yarn. All swifts hold the yarn-wheel under tension, preventing tangling: under tension a yarn wheel cannot shed loose loops here and there. Some swifts tension yarn with an umbrella-like unfolding mechanism ("umbrella swifts")  and some by means of pegs.  First fit the yarn-wheel loosely to the swift, then push the umbrella button or set the pegs to make the yarn wheel stretch as tight as possible. 

Umbrella swift. The orange button on the hub allows the mechanism to unfold upwards like an umbrella, The yarn-wheel stretches to its fullest as the mechanism enlarges.

Once mounted, it is time to unknot. The yarn-wheel is tied together in at least one place along its perimeter, and usually more spots, also. The main tie brings together the first (purple) and last (red) strands. Typically, the purple strand is brought to the surface in one or more loops, the red strand is threaded through the loops and the two strands are then tied together in a slip knot. This knot can be undone by pulling on the tails in the direction of the blue arrow. As to the other ties, these are usually simple loops, but after several unfortunate incidents, I try to untie all knots as much as possible, saving scissors for a last resort. 

The first purple) and last (red) strands are typically interwoven, then tied with a slip knot. To undo the knot, pull the tails in the direction of the blue arrow. 

It's less obvious in real life, but I have colorized the red and purple strands to show more clearly in this photo. 

Click here to enlarge: colorized, interwoven ends in real life.

Once the first and last strands are untied, tuck the last strand behind a slat of the swift (red arrow). Leaving it loose to flap is just asking for trouble. 

Tuck end behind slat

The last step before starting to wind is untwisting the skein as it lays on the swift. Twisted strands are often confused for crossed strands because both make the swift jam up. However, because you've already eliminated crossed strands as a culprit, the trick now is to locate and undo any twist. Twist traps some strands behind others, as these green strands are trapped behind the red, below. To cure, rotate that section of the skein (blue arrow) until the trapped strands are freed to the surface. Some skeins are highly twisted, so you have to go around and around several times, rotating the skein repeatedly until it unreels smoothly.

Rotating trapped strands to the surface

And now to winding! As mentioned, it is possible to make quite neat balls of yarn by hand, but quickest and easiest is a yarn winder. 

Once out of the box, assembled and clamped to a table, the ball-winder is threaded with the yarn through the yarn-guide, and the running end of the yarn coming off the swift is trapped in the slot at the top of the spindle, as shown. As you turn the handle (doesn't matter which way, but be consistent!) the yarn winds on. The handle has been colorized green in this illustration.

End of running yarn trapped in slot atop yarn winder spindle. This will become the center-pull

The winder base is tilted, so as it spins, it presents an ever-changing location for the yarn to wind onto. Close inspection shows the yarn actually winds on straight from the yarn-guide to the ball-surface. However, because of the tilt, the ball surface itself tilts toward then away, so yarn winds on from top of the spindle to the bottom, then back again. Further, the tilt is out of synch with the spin, so each new round of yarn goes on in a slightly different place than the one before. Result = a regular pattern of cross-winding. It's really very clever! 

Cross-winding

Geek note 1: This cross-winding pattern can be duplicated by hand for the mathematically inclined: here is an amazing 4-stage sample, a work of art in itself. 

And finally, if one picture is worth a thousand words, a 12-second video must be worth several paragraphs, right?  So here you go. 

 

There seems to be a theory that the winder must be mounted far away from the swift, but as you see, this isn't really necessary. Important is that the yarn exiting the swift takes a direct route to the winder. If the yarn has to go around a corner to enter the winder's ball-guide, reorient the winder. 

Trouble shooting

--If the winder stops but the swift keeps going, the yarn will spool around the shaft of the swift. So you have to unwind the yarn from the shaft before continuing. To prevent, stop the swift by hand the instant the ball-winder starts acting up. (This becomes an automatic reaction, pretty quick!)

--If the swift jams but the ball winder keeps going for a second, the yarn winds onto the ball very tightly. Cure by unspooling the tightly wound length and re-spool it onto the winder at normal tension before continuing.

--If the ball winder acts up and skips gears, there's too much tension between the swift and winder. Usually, this happens when twisting causes uneven feed. Cure by going back to the yarn on the swift and untwisting until the trapped strands come to the surface. Then, per above, unspool and respool the trouble spots. 

Tips

--It's awfully tempting to wind up all your yarn when it first comes home. However, you cannot return yarn to the store once wound up. Also, unless you're planning to knit up soon, it's actually easier on the yarn to store it as a skein. This is because yarn in a ball is under tension, while yarn in a skein is not. Yarn under tension will eventually stretch. Then, when it finally gets wet and has a chance to relax, it may very well go back to its original length. Result: the garment will seem to shrink, and of course, shrink unevenly. You can solve this problem by winding balls LOOSELY, but far-future projects, as well as souvenir yarn really are better off stored in skeins. 

--Knots in yarn have a way of appearing just as you get to the front left breast in a field of smooth stockinette. To fight unexpected knots, loosely guide the yarn through your hand as it travels from the winder to the ball. Stop the winder and cut out any knots you find, then knot in a contrasting color scrap as temporary inlay. In use, the inlay gives warning that a join is coming. Forewarned, you can plan just how much yarn you need to cut out (either just the knots and inlay, or a longer length to include the knots and inlay) in order to land your proper join in an inconspicuous spot.

 

Cut out any knots you find (top) then knot in a temporary contrast color inlay (red, bottom). In use, the inlay provides warning a join is coming up.

--As the ball is pulled off the spindle, the center collapses. If you plan to center-pull your balls, make sure you have hold of the center yarn where it crosses the spindle-slot before you unmount the ball from the winder. This is also the perfect time to fold the yarn label and pull the ball up over it: as the center collapses around it, the label is held securely. 

--Finally, consider tying on contrasting color scraps to both ends of the ball--the center-pull as well as the outside end. Now the tails are obvious, even when tucked into the ball for safe-keeping. The specter of tangling is tamed, the yarn ball is angelic again. 

Angelic again. This ball has contrast color leaders tied on, and the label and leaders tucked in. 

Take care--TK

 * * *

Questions? Feedback? Contact me at 

Blue Sky  @techknitter.bsky.social or  

talk to me about this post on Ravelry TECHknitter forum

* * *

Previously published posts about yarn handling

Yarn organization for color knitting

Quickly unkinking yarn with a steam iron (video)

Center-pull balls of yarn, wound up by hand (with video)

Center-pull balls of yarn, wound up by hand

Scrap amounts, or a whole skein: any reasonable amount of yarn can be hand-wound into neat and tidy center-pull balls. There's a video, followed by the non-video illustrated version. 

Video

If the video does not load for you, here's the direct link to the You-Tube URL 

If the subtitles are in your way, pull them to the screen top, and by all means, skip the ads--they are annoying as heck. 

Here is the non-video illustrated explanation.

Begin by laying the yarn tail between the first two fingers of your non-dominant hand (left hand in the illustration). This tail will become the center-pull. 

Lay the tail between your first two fingers. This will become the center-pull

Now trap down the tail with your thumb, then wrap the yarn over your fingers 10 times to form a (very) mini hank.

Mini-hank wound over first two fingers

Once you have ten loops over your fingers, slip this mini-hank off your fingers, pinch it up and wind more yarn over its middle, meaning at 90 degrees to the direction of the original wind.

Wind over the middle

For a small ball, the last two steps are these

    -- As you come to the last wrap, lay a forefinger alongside the winding, then wind the very last wrap over it, as shown below. Then, pull up tightly. 

    -- Insert the tail-end UNDER the last wrap, in the direction from your forefinger towards the palm of you hand, meaning inserting towards the center-pull:  red arrow  in illustration above. If you've done this last part correctly, the entire scrap of yarn will unwind from the center pull without a knot in its tail. Inserted the other way (from palm towards finger) will leave a small granny-knot in the tail. Give a final gentle tug to seat the tail and there's your tiny center-pull ball. This is a very convenient, very quick way of organizing scraps. 

For the larger ball version,  keep winding over the center mini-hank maybe 20 or 25 times, until you have a good mass into which you can sink a "claw" consisting of your thumb and middle finger, as shown.

In the upcoming action, each of the fingers on your non-dominant hand gets a different role. 

--The claw of thumb and middle-finger is the axis around which the ball will rotate. Where these fingers are, the top and bottom ball-eyes will form.

--The forefinger  provides  rotation  by a ratcheting action, meaning it will rotate the ball towards the palm  (red arrow)  one small step after each wrap: "to ratchet" means to "proceed by steps or degrees." 

--The last two fingers hold down the center-pull against the palm so it does not get lost.  

The action is this: the dominant hand winds the yarn over the top of the ball, first bringing the yarn towards you, then away over the top of the ball, around the back, and so up from the bottom again. In the illustration below, the yarn has been passed over the top of the ball, is now around the back, and will shortly be drawn forward again, up from the bottom, and so over the thumb. In this way, every wrap slightly overlaps the thumb. 

As the ball is rotated by the forefinger, the yarn slides off the thumbnail in the direction of the green arrow. If each rotation is equal, the yarn slides off at even intervals: this is how the very pretty and regular pattern of yarn is laid down. The yarn is also wrapped slightly overlapping the middle finger as it passes around the back of the ball, and the same slide-off occurs at each ratchet-step. 

 As to just HOW the forefinger provides rotation, in the illustration below A and B are both your forefinger, just in different places. When the forefinger is in the A position, it is just about to plunge into the ball. As soon as the wrap goes by, the forefinger does plunge into the ball. Then, still plunged, it is drawn towards the palm, into the B position (solid blue arrow). This make the ball rotate one small step around the "claw" axis of your thumb and middle finger. In the illustration, the forefinger in its B position has just completed the rotation and is being lifted out of the ball.

After each little rotation, the forefinger is raised and put back into the A position (blue d-o-t-t-e-d arrow), waiting above the ball for another wrap to go by. With each wrap, the forefinger again plunges into the ball and draws the ball towards the palm into the B position. It is in this sense that the forefinger is "ratcheting" the ball. In other words, it is the repeated sinking, drawing and lifting action which rotates the ball by a small degree each wrap, and so each trip of the forefinger from A to B is a "ratchet step." 

If you find this confusing, then, even if you HATE videos, consider watching just the "wrap-and-ratchet" action of the video at the top of this post. That specific action starts at 2:37 (2 minutes and 37 seconds) into the video.

If you are wrapping and ratcheting with your thumb and middle finger "claw" always in the same place, deep eyes would form at each finger, and the ball would start to become egg-shaped. The steeper the egg, the more yarn would try to fall off the sides. So, when you start approaching egg shape, you have to stop wrapping and change position. Simply sink your thumb and middle finger "claw" into the ball in a new place, and then start wrapping and ratcheting in this new position. 

You may wonder what happens to the center-pull when you wind over it, and the answer is, nothing happens. As long as you give the center pull yarn a tug every so often to keep it at the correct length, and as long as you don't lose track of it, the center-pull yarn will travel along the inside the ball from the old eye to the new eye, and appear there. When you first go to tug on a center-pull ball which has been wound using many changes of direction, the center pull may be stubborn. Have faith! Insist! Keep tugging and the stubbornness will subside. After these first few tight tugs, the center-pull will have created a straighter path from the heart of the ball where it originates, to pull more easily outward.

Three last thoughts.

First, just because the ball is capable of being center-pulled does not mean you have to use it that way. In fact, center-pulling may introduce unwanted twist. For more info, there's a whole TECHknitting post about that, but the short version is, you may want to unwind from the outside of the ball to prevent biasing. If you for sure are going to unwind from the outside, you can wind the ball just as shown here, but without keeping track of the center-pull.

Outside-unwinding is conveniently done either via a yarn lazy-suzan* (either commercial or home-made) or a yarn bowl or similar container. If outside-unwinding a center-pull ball, tuck the center-pull into the eye of the ball, having first knotted-on a scrap of contrast color yarn so you can find it again.

And finally, we are winding yarn here, not the innards of a baseball. Keep the tension of winding as loose as you can: tight enough so the yarn doesn't fall off in every direction, but no tighter. Tight winding stretches the yarn now and leads to problems later--uneven gauge, garments which shrink mysteriously the first time they are wetted and even yarn which offers to come apart. Loose is the watchword when winding yarn into balls! 

--TK

* Geek note: if you know ahead of time you'll be using a lazy-susan with a spike, you'll have to re-mount the ball at every place you changed direction of winding, because the placement of the eyes has changed. Therefore, you may choose to change direction of winding less often than if you were unwinding via yarn-bowl.

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Related posts about yarn handling

Yarn organization for color knitting

Quickly unkinking yarn with a steam iron (video)

Winding a skein into a ball of yarn

Splitting (unspinning) yarn: thinner yarn for utility or color work

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Questions or feedback? Talk to me about this post on Ravelry's TECHknitting forum