Saturday, June 7, 2008
Friday, June 6, 2008
How to make tassels
Tassels are very similar to pom-poms. They are a good trick to know because they use substantially less yarn than most pom-poms, and go quicker, too. Shown here are basic tassels, but you can really jazz these up quite a bit--you can put a bead or a bit of stuffing in the top part, you can wrap two or more "top parts," the variety is endless, and tassel-making is actually a fine and ancient fabric art in its own right. However, basic tassels look swell too, and make a very fine hat topper in just a few moments.
step 1 (above) get 2 pieces of straight cardboard and sandwich a yarn between (red in the illustration). The height of the cardboard corresponds to the overall height of the tassel. Although the illustration shows two pieces of cardboard, one double-height piece, folded over, works nearly as well.
step 2 (above) Wrap yarn (can be scraps) around and around the cardboard. The more yarn you wrap, the bushier the tassel will be. Yet, sparse tassels have their own charm so even if you have very little yarn left, a tassel is a good way to use it up.
step 3 (above) This is where it would be good to have an extra set of hands. You must pull the tie-yarn up from the middle of the cardboard, and cut the bottom of the tassels free. Lacking extra hands, pressing the works against the tabletop while cutting helps prevent the cut yarns from springing about and showering the room with stray ends. If you are using the lazy-knitter trick of folded cardboard, you pull the tie yarn to the open edge and cut the tassel open along the folded edge.
step 4 (above) Take a length of yarn (pink in the illustration) and wrap it around the nascent tassel FIRMLY. The illustration shows two wraps, but 5 or 10 wraps is more common (although harder to illustrate!) Most common is to use a yarn of the same color. A contrasting color yarn (as shown) is more for illustration. If you like, you can do step 5 before step 4, which gives you more control over all the loose ends.
step 5 (above) Tie the center cord tightly, and use the tails from the center cord to attach the tassel. Some folks like the tassel to swing on the end of its own little cord, in which case you sandwich in a L-O-N-G center cord in step 1. After tying the center cord to make the tassel, you can chain-crochet or repeatedly knot together the two ends of center cord to the desired length before attaching the tassel to the hat (scarf, afghan, lap robe, sweater tie, etc). If you find that the tassel-ends are unraveling, you can knot the ends, as shown in the last illustration of this post.
One last thing: It is also possible to make tassels from I-cord, which follow the same basic principle, but result in a different look. Click here for more details.
--TECHknitter (You have been reading TECHknitting on: "How to make a tassel")
step 1 (above) get 2 pieces of straight cardboard and sandwich a yarn between (red in the illustration). The height of the cardboard corresponds to the overall height of the tassel. Although the illustration shows two pieces of cardboard, one double-height piece, folded over, works nearly as well.
step 2 (above) Wrap yarn (can be scraps) around and around the cardboard. The more yarn you wrap, the bushier the tassel will be. Yet, sparse tassels have their own charm so even if you have very little yarn left, a tassel is a good way to use it up.
step 3 (above) This is where it would be good to have an extra set of hands. You must pull the tie-yarn up from the middle of the cardboard, and cut the bottom of the tassels free. Lacking extra hands, pressing the works against the tabletop while cutting helps prevent the cut yarns from springing about and showering the room with stray ends. If you are using the lazy-knitter trick of folded cardboard, you pull the tie yarn to the open edge and cut the tassel open along the folded edge.
step 4 (above) Take a length of yarn (pink in the illustration) and wrap it around the nascent tassel FIRMLY. The illustration shows two wraps, but 5 or 10 wraps is more common (although harder to illustrate!) Most common is to use a yarn of the same color. A contrasting color yarn (as shown) is more for illustration. If you like, you can do step 5 before step 4, which gives you more control over all the loose ends.
step 5 (above) Tie the center cord tightly, and use the tails from the center cord to attach the tassel. Some folks like the tassel to swing on the end of its own little cord, in which case you sandwich in a L-O-N-G center cord in step 1. After tying the center cord to make the tassel, you can chain-crochet or repeatedly knot together the two ends of center cord to the desired length before attaching the tassel to the hat (scarf, afghan, lap robe, sweater tie, etc). If you find that the tassel-ends are unraveling, you can knot the ends, as shown in the last illustration of this post.One last thing: It is also possible to make tassels from I-cord, which follow the same basic principle, but result in a different look. Click here for more details.
--TECHknitter (You have been reading TECHknitting on: "How to make a tassel")
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
How to make pom-poms
Includes 8 illustrations, click any illustration to enlarge
A couple of days ago, a knitter on a community board asked how to make pom-poms. Immediately, the little voices in my head led me to sit down and illustrate this subject.
1. (above) The traditional way to wind pom-poms: Cut two cardboard doughnuts of the same size. Sandwich a yarn (illustrated in red) in between the two layers.
2. (above) Wind yarn (illustrated in green) over the doughnut, around and around, working the yarn through the center hole on each pass.
3. On illustration 2, you can see that the center hole is small. As you can imagine, it is something of a pain to wind the yarn through that center hole again and again. When I was 10, I had to make dozens of pom-poms for a project. Being as lazy as the next 10-year old, I figured that, per illustration 3 (above), if one-quarter of the circle form is cut away, it is MUCH faster and easier to wind the yarn around the resulting three-quarter pom-pom form, and the pom-pom comes out just as well. As shown, with a three-quarter form, as with the original full circle form, you begin by laying a yarn in between the two layers.
4. (above) As with the full circle form, wind the yarn around and around whole length of the three-quarter form, making sure that the center yarn does not get lost inside the form. The more yarn you wrap around the form, the bushier your pom-pom will be.
5. (above) Lay the form on a table and press it down firmly. Insert a scissors between the two layers of the form and cut the strands of pom-pom yarn where they pass over the outer edge of the form.
6. (above) Working carefully, pull up the center yarn tightly, then remove the form and lay it aside. Tie the center yarn in a very tight knot--this knot is what holds your pom-pom together. Refinements are possible: for example, you can wind the center yarn several times around strands once they have been cut free, knotting with every re-wind, or knotting just once at the end.
7. (above) Fluff the finished pom-pom into a three-dimensional shape. Trim off any oddly long strands. Remember not to pull on any one strand, or it will pop loose of the pom-pom. The ends of the center yarn can be used to attach the pom-pom to the hat top (or whatever else you are decorating). In real life, of course, your center yarn would be the same color as the pom-pom, and it will therefore be invisible.
8. (above)
a. Some yarns want to unravel when cut. In a very bushy pom-pom, this will not be a problem, because the yarn has not the room to unravel, but in a sparse pom-pom, you may face this issue.
b.& c. You can solve this problem by tying a little overhand knot (granny knot) in the end of each strand of the pom-pom yarn. A sparse pom-pom of perhaps 10 or 30 strands with each strand topped with a knot is quite charming--the knots give the strand ends a little heft and they swing about charmingly when you move and look like a little fountain, or a spray of fireworks.
One final note: You do not need to use a continuous strand of yarn to make a pom-pom. After all, you are going to cut the yarn into lots and lots of little pieces in step 5. You can wind little scraps of yarn over the form just as well as longer pieces--even if the scrap goes around the form only a couple of times, you can still use it--simply anchor it in place by overlapping its end with the next scrap. A pom-pom made of lots of scraps may shed odd bits where the center yarn did not catch the tail end of the scrap, but that is no particular problem--just comb out the pom pom AFTER you tie the knot, and these uncaught bits will fall right out.
Related posts:
How to make a tassel
How to make an I-cord tassel
--TECHknitter (You have been reading TECHknitting on: "pom-pom how-to.")
A couple of days ago, a knitter on a community board asked how to make pom-poms. Immediately, the little voices in my head led me to sit down and illustrate this subject.
1. (above) The traditional way to wind pom-poms: Cut two cardboard doughnuts of the same size. Sandwich a yarn (illustrated in red) in between the two layers.
2. (above) Wind yarn (illustrated in green) over the doughnut, around and around, working the yarn through the center hole on each pass.
3. On illustration 2, you can see that the center hole is small. As you can imagine, it is something of a pain to wind the yarn through that center hole again and again. When I was 10, I had to make dozens of pom-poms for a project. Being as lazy as the next 10-year old, I figured that, per illustration 3 (above), if one-quarter of the circle form is cut away, it is MUCH faster and easier to wind the yarn around the resulting three-quarter pom-pom form, and the pom-pom comes out just as well. As shown, with a three-quarter form, as with the original full circle form, you begin by laying a yarn in between the two layers.
4. (above) As with the full circle form, wind the yarn around and around whole length of the three-quarter form, making sure that the center yarn does not get lost inside the form. The more yarn you wrap around the form, the bushier your pom-pom will be.
5. (above) Lay the form on a table and press it down firmly. Insert a scissors between the two layers of the form and cut the strands of pom-pom yarn where they pass over the outer edge of the form.
6. (above) Working carefully, pull up the center yarn tightly, then remove the form and lay it aside. Tie the center yarn in a very tight knot--this knot is what holds your pom-pom together. Refinements are possible: for example, you can wind the center yarn several times around strands once they have been cut free, knotting with every re-wind, or knotting just once at the end.
7. (above) Fluff the finished pom-pom into a three-dimensional shape. Trim off any oddly long strands. Remember not to pull on any one strand, or it will pop loose of the pom-pom. The ends of the center yarn can be used to attach the pom-pom to the hat top (or whatever else you are decorating). In real life, of course, your center yarn would be the same color as the pom-pom, and it will therefore be invisible.
8. (above)a. Some yarns want to unravel when cut. In a very bushy pom-pom, this will not be a problem, because the yarn has not the room to unravel, but in a sparse pom-pom, you may face this issue.
b.& c. You can solve this problem by tying a little overhand knot (granny knot) in the end of each strand of the pom-pom yarn. A sparse pom-pom of perhaps 10 or 30 strands with each strand topped with a knot is quite charming--the knots give the strand ends a little heft and they swing about charmingly when you move and look like a little fountain, or a spray of fireworks.
One final note: You do not need to use a continuous strand of yarn to make a pom-pom. After all, you are going to cut the yarn into lots and lots of little pieces in step 5. You can wind little scraps of yarn over the form just as well as longer pieces--even if the scrap goes around the form only a couple of times, you can still use it--simply anchor it in place by overlapping its end with the next scrap. A pom-pom made of lots of scraps may shed odd bits where the center yarn did not catch the tail end of the scrap, but that is no particular problem--just comb out the pom pom AFTER you tie the knot, and these uncaught bits will fall right out.
Related posts:
How to make a tassel
How to make an I-cord tassel
--TECHknitter (You have been reading TECHknitting on: "pom-pom how-to.")
Friday, May 9, 2008
The BEST way to attach lining fabric to knitting--the OVERCAST STITCH (part 5 of "hand sewing for hand knitters")
We come now to a stitch as useful to hand knitters as any stitch could well be--we come to the OVERCAST STITCH (also called the whip stitch).
This stitch has the fabulous ability to attach a LINING to KNIT FABRIC such that the lining doesn't rip out of the knit garment as soon as the knit garment is stretched.
TECHknitting has already given directions for lining a hat with a Polar fleece headband. which shows the overcast stitch in action, but this post shows the actual details of the stitch itself.
The illustration below shows a green lining being overcast stitched to a blue knitted fabric by a right handed sewer. (Click picture to enlarge.)
The close-up illustration below shows why this stitch works.(Click picture to enlarge.)
Attaching a lining to knitting is a challenge because lining is often made of WOVEN CLOTH, and woven cloth, as we know, does not stretch very much. Knitting, on the other hand, is extremely stretchy. The stitch chosen to attach such dissimilar fabrics has to--
1. hold the woven cloth in place, even when the underlying knitted fabric is stretching
2. not stop the knitted cloth from stretching
3. flexibly connect the woven cloth and the knitted fabric.
The overcast stitch gets a "A+" on all three factors. As stated in a previous post, the overcast stitch "tethers" the fabrics together rather than "nailing" them together. Look closely at the stitch in the close-up above and you'll see that the lining fabric is actually "hanging" from the knitted fabric. In other words, the overcast stitch is acting as a little string from which the lining is "swinging." This "swing" allows the lining to adjust to the stretch of the fabric.
As the final illustration, below, shows, there is also quite a bit of thread reserve in the overcast stitch--the path of the thread resembles a coiled spring, and this coil of thread has the reserve to stretch when stressed.
And yet...although the overcast stitch works the best of all the hand sewing stitches for attaching a lining, the reserve of thread in this stitch might not be enough to stop the thread from breaking when the knitting is over-stretched. You can mostly solve this problem by cutting the lining bigger than the garment, then sewing in the excess via little bite-sized bumps. This is called "easing in a lining." An example of easing in a lining is shown in the TECHknitting post mentioned earlier, about lining a hat, headband style, with polar fleece.
Good knitting--TK
This is part 5 of a 5 part series on hand sewing for knitters
Part 1: Starting off
Part 2: Starting off with a doubled thread
part 3: the running stitch
part 4: the back stitch
part 5: the overcast stitch (best way to attach lining fabric to knitting) (this post)
(You have been reading TECHknitting on: The over cast stitch--part 5 of "hand sewing for hand knitters.")
This stitch has the fabulous ability to attach a LINING to KNIT FABRIC such that the lining doesn't rip out of the knit garment as soon as the knit garment is stretched.
TECHknitting has already given directions for lining a hat with a Polar fleece headband. which shows the overcast stitch in action, but this post shows the actual details of the stitch itself.
The illustration below shows a green lining being overcast stitched to a blue knitted fabric by a right handed sewer. (Click picture to enlarge.)
The close-up illustration below shows why this stitch works.(Click picture to enlarge.)
Attaching a lining to knitting is a challenge because lining is often made of WOVEN CLOTH, and woven cloth, as we know, does not stretch very much. Knitting, on the other hand, is extremely stretchy. The stitch chosen to attach such dissimilar fabrics has to--
1. hold the woven cloth in place, even when the underlying knitted fabric is stretching
2. not stop the knitted cloth from stretching
3. flexibly connect the woven cloth and the knitted fabric.
The overcast stitch gets a "A+" on all three factors. As stated in a previous post, the overcast stitch "tethers" the fabrics together rather than "nailing" them together. Look closely at the stitch in the close-up above and you'll see that the lining fabric is actually "hanging" from the knitted fabric. In other words, the overcast stitch is acting as a little string from which the lining is "swinging." This "swing" allows the lining to adjust to the stretch of the fabric.
As the final illustration, below, shows, there is also quite a bit of thread reserve in the overcast stitch--the path of the thread resembles a coiled spring, and this coil of thread has the reserve to stretch when stressed.
And yet...although the overcast stitch works the best of all the hand sewing stitches for attaching a lining, the reserve of thread in this stitch might not be enough to stop the thread from breaking when the knitting is over-stretched. You can mostly solve this problem by cutting the lining bigger than the garment, then sewing in the excess via little bite-sized bumps. This is called "easing in a lining." An example of easing in a lining is shown in the TECHknitting post mentioned earlier, about lining a hat, headband style, with polar fleece.
Good knitting--TK
This is part 5 of a 5 part series on hand sewing for knitters
Part 1: Starting off
Part 2: Starting off with a doubled thread
part 3: the running stitch
part 4: the back stitch
part 5: the overcast stitch (best way to attach lining fabric to knitting) (this post)
(You have been reading TECHknitting on: The over cast stitch--part 5 of "hand sewing for hand knitters.")
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Part 4 of hand sewing for hand knitters: THE BACK STITCH
We're at part 4 of the TECHknitting series on handsewing for handknitters. So far, we've gone over two ways to start your thread, and one way (not to) sew it. Now we come to a very useful stitch --the BACK STITCH. The back stitch isn't much use in attaching knitted fabric to itself, but it is very useful for
Before machine sewing was invented, the back stitch was widely used for general seaming of all sorts (seaming=sewing cut pieces of cloth together). The back stitch was also widely used for hemming (hemming=sewing folded-over fabric shut so as to conceal a cut edge).
Today, most folks substitute machine-sewing for the long, straight lines of stitches at which back stitch excels. Yet, back stitch remains a very useful stitch to know--even if you have a machine and prefer it, you may find that setting up the machine, threading it, and maybe having to wind a bobbin, takes longer than sewing a simple seam by hand--sewing shut a narrow head-band lining of polar fleece, for example.
For those without access to a machine, or those who prefer to work by hand, the back stitch would be an excellent choice for many types of sewing which hand knitters are likely to do: sewing up a purse lining or a sweater lining, or attaching a zipper.
So, without further ado, here is...
1. (above) After you have anchored your thread on the back of the fabric, stab upwards with your needle, pulling it to the fabric face. Next, re-insert your needle one stitch length behind the point where it emerged. By "behind," I mean that right handed knitters, who are working from right to left, should insert the needle one stitch length to the right of where the needle first emerged, while left-handed sewers would reverse course, and insert the needle one stitch length to the left. This step ends with the needle on the back of the fabric.
2a. (above) At the end of step 1, above, the needle was drawn to the back of the fabric. In this step, the needle will be returned to the fabric face by stabbing upwards, ahead of the previous stitch. The distance between where the needle was stabbed down in step 1, and where it is to be stabbed up in step 2 is called a "stitch length PLUS."
The "PLUS" refers to the fact that you must stab the needle upwards at a distance FROM the last stitch of one stitch length PLUS the "interruption length" between stitches.
2b. (above) The "interruption length" is simply a fancy name for the distance between the stitches. If you skip ahead to illustration 5, you can see a variation on the back stitch called the "continuous back stitch," in which the back stitch is created with no interruption length. With no interruption length, the stitches touch.
3. (above) To complete the second stitch, again re-insert the needle one stitch length behind where it emerged. The path of the thread under the fabric is shown by the dotted line.
4. (above) Repeating steps 2 and 3 yields a line of back stitches. As you can see, the (dotted) line of the thread under the fabric is looped. This means that the back stitch takes quite a bit of thread--like an iceberg showing on the ocean's surface, the thread showing at the surface of the fabric is only a small fraction of the total amount.
5. (above) The variation called the "continuous back stitch" is illustrated here. To make the chain of stitches continuous on the face of the fabric, the "interruption length" has been diminished to zero. In other words, a continuous line of stitches on the fabric face has been made by stabbing the needle up EXACTLY one stitch length AHEAD of the previous stitch (as illustrated) then stabbing it down IN THE SAME HOLE as the previous stitch came up.
There is no particular structural difference between the regular back stitch (WITH an interruption length) and the continuous back stitch (NO interruption length) but the look is different, and some folks prefer one look over another.
6. (above) As with the running stitch illustrated in the last post, the back stitch can also be created by a shortcut method. However, this shortcut method is best reserved for thin fabrics--bulky fabrics would pucker by this method, so bulky fabrics are best sewn by the stabbing method illustrated in steps 1-4.
7. (above) Unlike the running stitch, the back stitch does not look the same on both sides. The back of the fabric shows the loops where the thread was "brought back" before the stitch re-emerges on the fabric face. This loop of thread attending each stitch is one reason why the back stitch is superior to the running stitch: those thread loops form a little reserve of thread which can adjust (somewhat, at least) when the fabric is stressed. Also, the loops distribute the stress on any one stitch over a greater area of fabric, which helps prevent wear holes where the thread emerges from the fabric, and helps protect the thread from snapping when stressed.
And yet...
Regardless of how important the concept of thread reserve is to hand sewers, hand knitters should BEWARE not to be misled. To hand knitters--accustomed to the great stretch of knitted fabrics--the scale of the stretch allowed by the thread reserve of the back stitch is negligible. It is only in the context of the relative inflexibility of woven cloth that the thread reserve in back stitch is worth talking about. For use on stretchy fabric like hand knits, the back stitch should only be used where a firm attachment is wanted between a piece of woven cloth and the knit fabric--inserting a zipper or a grosgrain ribbon backing on a button band.
Bottom line: the back stitch is an excellent stitch--a real workhorse stitch--for
This is part 2 of a 5 part series on hand sewing for knitters
Part 1: Starting off
Part 2: Starting off with a doubled thread
part 3: the running stitch
part 4: the back stitch (this post)
part 5: the overcast stitch (best way to attach lining fabric to knitting)
--TECHknitter (You have been reading TECHknitting on: the back stitch: hand sewing for hand knitters, part 4.)
- sewing up WOVEN cloth, or
- ATTACHING woven cloth firmly TO knitted fabric--sewing in a zipper, for example.
Before machine sewing was invented, the back stitch was widely used for general seaming of all sorts (seaming=sewing cut pieces of cloth together). The back stitch was also widely used for hemming (hemming=sewing folded-over fabric shut so as to conceal a cut edge).
Today, most folks substitute machine-sewing for the long, straight lines of stitches at which back stitch excels. Yet, back stitch remains a very useful stitch to know--even if you have a machine and prefer it, you may find that setting up the machine, threading it, and maybe having to wind a bobbin, takes longer than sewing a simple seam by hand--sewing shut a narrow head-band lining of polar fleece, for example.
For those without access to a machine, or those who prefer to work by hand, the back stitch would be an excellent choice for many types of sewing which hand knitters are likely to do: sewing up a purse lining or a sweater lining, or attaching a zipper.
So, without further ado, here is...
THE BACK STITCH, illustrated
1. (above) After you have anchored your thread on the back of the fabric, stab upwards with your needle, pulling it to the fabric face. Next, re-insert your needle one stitch length behind the point where it emerged. By "behind," I mean that right handed knitters, who are working from right to left, should insert the needle one stitch length to the right of where the needle first emerged, while left-handed sewers would reverse course, and insert the needle one stitch length to the left. This step ends with the needle on the back of the fabric.
2a. (above) At the end of step 1, above, the needle was drawn to the back of the fabric. In this step, the needle will be returned to the fabric face by stabbing upwards, ahead of the previous stitch. The distance between where the needle was stabbed down in step 1, and where it is to be stabbed up in step 2 is called a "stitch length PLUS."The "PLUS" refers to the fact that you must stab the needle upwards at a distance FROM the last stitch of one stitch length PLUS the "interruption length" between stitches.
2b. (above) The "interruption length" is simply a fancy name for the distance between the stitches. If you skip ahead to illustration 5, you can see a variation on the back stitch called the "continuous back stitch," in which the back stitch is created with no interruption length. With no interruption length, the stitches touch.
3. (above) To complete the second stitch, again re-insert the needle one stitch length behind where it emerged. The path of the thread under the fabric is shown by the dotted line.
4. (above) Repeating steps 2 and 3 yields a line of back stitches. As you can see, the (dotted) line of the thread under the fabric is looped. This means that the back stitch takes quite a bit of thread--like an iceberg showing on the ocean's surface, the thread showing at the surface of the fabric is only a small fraction of the total amount.
5. (above) The variation called the "continuous back stitch" is illustrated here. To make the chain of stitches continuous on the face of the fabric, the "interruption length" has been diminished to zero. In other words, a continuous line of stitches on the fabric face has been made by stabbing the needle up EXACTLY one stitch length AHEAD of the previous stitch (as illustrated) then stabbing it down IN THE SAME HOLE as the previous stitch came up.There is no particular structural difference between the regular back stitch (WITH an interruption length) and the continuous back stitch (NO interruption length) but the look is different, and some folks prefer one look over another.
6. (above) As with the running stitch illustrated in the last post, the back stitch can also be created by a shortcut method. However, this shortcut method is best reserved for thin fabrics--bulky fabrics would pucker by this method, so bulky fabrics are best sewn by the stabbing method illustrated in steps 1-4.
7. (above) Unlike the running stitch, the back stitch does not look the same on both sides. The back of the fabric shows the loops where the thread was "brought back" before the stitch re-emerges on the fabric face. This loop of thread attending each stitch is one reason why the back stitch is superior to the running stitch: those thread loops form a little reserve of thread which can adjust (somewhat, at least) when the fabric is stressed. Also, the loops distribute the stress on any one stitch over a greater area of fabric, which helps prevent wear holes where the thread emerges from the fabric, and helps protect the thread from snapping when stressed.And yet...
Regardless of how important the concept of thread reserve is to hand sewers, hand knitters should BEWARE not to be misled. To hand knitters--accustomed to the great stretch of knitted fabrics--the scale of the stretch allowed by the thread reserve of the back stitch is negligible. It is only in the context of the relative inflexibility of woven cloth that the thread reserve in back stitch is worth talking about. For use on stretchy fabric like hand knits, the back stitch should only be used where a firm attachment is wanted between a piece of woven cloth and the knit fabric--inserting a zipper or a grosgrain ribbon backing on a button band.
Bottom line: the back stitch is an excellent stitch--a real workhorse stitch--for
- seaming woven fabric (attaching cut pieces of woven fabric together, permanently)
- hemming woven fabric (attaching a folded-over piece of woven fabric to itself to hide a cut edge and prevent it from unraveling) and
- attaching a woven fabric firmly to knitted fabric (hand-setting a zipper or a grosgrain ribbon, for example)
This is part 2 of a 5 part series on hand sewing for knitters
Part 1: Starting off
Part 2: Starting off with a doubled thread
part 3: the running stitch
part 4: the back stitch (this post)
part 5: the overcast stitch (best way to attach lining fabric to knitting)
--TECHknitter (You have been reading TECHknitting on: the back stitch: hand sewing for hand knitters, part 4.)
Saturday, May 3, 2008
Part 3--hand sewing for hand knitters--the running stitch
This third installment of the TECHknitting series on hand sewing for hand knitters is about the running stitch. The running stitch is iconic--say "hand sewing," and this stitch is what most folks think of first.
We'll get to the advantages and disadvantages of running stitch in a minute, but first, here are 4 illustrations showing the stitch itself.
1. (above) In thin fabric, the running stitch is often done by the "shortcut method," creating several stitches at once. For right handed sewers, it is easiest to sew FROM right to left, as shown. (Left handed sewers should reverse course.)
2. (above) In the shortcut method, the needle is drawn through even "bites" on the fabric face, creating stitches of even length.
3. (above) In bulky fabric, the shortcut method will cause bumps and puckers, and this is particularly true where several layers of fabric are being stitched together. To avoid puckers, "stab down" on each stitch from the face of the fabric to the back, then return the needle by "stabbing up" from the back of the fabric to the face. Accomplished hand sewers, such as hand quilters, keep one hand above the fabric and one below, rapidly stabbing the needle up and down with each hand, alternately. When first learning this two-handed method, it is VERY easy to prick yourself with the needle, so go slow.
4. (above) Unlike some other hand sewing stitches, the running stitch looks the same on the front and the back.
Hand knitters generally meet the running stitch in two different situations. First, it is often used to attach lining fabric to hand knitted fabric. Second, the running stitch is often used to sew up the lining fabric itself. Sadly, the running stitch is NOT actually good at either task.
To sew lining fabric to itself (such as to close the end of the Polar fleece headband shown in the TECHknitting post of April 25, 2008) the back stitch is a far better choice, and a future post will be show more about the back stitch. To attach lining fabric to hand knitted fabric, such as attaching the Polar fleece headband to the hat in the headband post, the overcast stitch, is a far better choice, and a future post will show the overcast stitch in detail.
The running stitch is a poor choice for hand knitters because, as shown in illustrations 1-4, above, the running stitch "runs" straight through the fabric. Without any reserve "slack," when running stitch is stretched, it is likely to snap. As you can imagine, once the running thread is snapped, the running stitches would quickly unravel. Every time you put on or take off a knitted garment, these non-slack stitches stress, and will eventually break.
Running stitch is really best for only one thing--BASTING (temporarily tacking fabric together before the "real sewing" takes place). After the real sewing, the basting is removed. When used for basting, the weakness of running stitch (it comes out easily) is actually a strength (you WANT basting to come out easily).
Now, as you know, basting today is uncommon because it is time consuming. The modern trend is to skip basting and use pins instead: to pin fabrics together and then do the "real" sewing on the pinned-together fabrics. When you HAND-SEW fabrics together, pinning is a sensible, time saving substitution for basting--hand sewing goes slowly, so pins in the way can readily be re-positioned. However, for MACHINE SEWING, especially for machine sewing bulky hand knits, pinning is a poor substitute for basting.
An example: suppose that you wanted to machine-sew a grosgrain ribbon backing onto a button band. If you were to PIN the button band (green) to the ribbon (red), each pin would make a lump in the fabric, as shown in illustration 5, above. At each lump, your sewing machine foot must climb up, over, and then down the other side. Unless you are an expert machine-sewer, the result is likely to be a wandering line of stitches, with each stitch likely a different length.
However, if you were to BASTE the ribbon (red) behind the button band (green) before machine sewing, the ribbon and the overlying button band would lie smoothly together, as shown in illustration 6, above. Basting makes it more likely that your precious hand knits will emerge from the maw of your sewing machine without incident.
Another hand-knitting application for a running stitch basting is before you machine-stitch a steek. If you've ever stabilized a steek using a regular machine foot, you may have experienced the heart-stopping realization that the machine stitching is s-p-r-e-a-d-i-n-g the hand-knit fabric substantially. Although the subsequent knit stitches picked up along the steek edge counteract the stretch, a line of running stitch basting with a sturdy doubled thread BEFORE machine stitching will help prevent this scary tendency to stretch in the first place.
Bottom line: running stitch is best reserved for those occasions when hand knitters need to baste. Running stitch is not suitable for permanent sewing, and especially not on stretchy hand knits.
added on May 5, 2008: A BIG THANK YOU to Honnay, who noted that the direction of sewing in the original version of this post was confusing. Thanks to Honnay's comment, the drawings have now been reversed, and a note about sewing directions added.
This is part 3 of a 5 part series on hand sewing for knitters
Part 1: Starting off
Part 2: Starting off with a doubled thread
part 3: the running stitch (this post)
part 4: the back stitch
part 5: the overcast stitch (best way to attach lining fabric to knitting)
--TECHknitter (You have been reading TECHknitting on: "the running stitch--hand sewing for hand knitters")
We'll get to the advantages and disadvantages of running stitch in a minute, but first, here are 4 illustrations showing the stitch itself.
HOW TO DO THE RUNNING STITCH
1. (above) In thin fabric, the running stitch is often done by the "shortcut method," creating several stitches at once. For right handed sewers, it is easiest to sew FROM right to left, as shown. (Left handed sewers should reverse course.)
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2. (above) In the shortcut method, the needle is drawn through even "bites" on the fabric face, creating stitches of even length.
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3. (above) In bulky fabric, the shortcut method will cause bumps and puckers, and this is particularly true where several layers of fabric are being stitched together. To avoid puckers, "stab down" on each stitch from the face of the fabric to the back, then return the needle by "stabbing up" from the back of the fabric to the face. Accomplished hand sewers, such as hand quilters, keep one hand above the fabric and one below, rapidly stabbing the needle up and down with each hand, alternately. When first learning this two-handed method, it is VERY easy to prick yourself with the needle, so go slow.
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4. (above) Unlike some other hand sewing stitches, the running stitch looks the same on the front and the back.
ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES of the RUNNING STITCH
Hand knitters generally meet the running stitch in two different situations. First, it is often used to attach lining fabric to hand knitted fabric. Second, the running stitch is often used to sew up the lining fabric itself. Sadly, the running stitch is NOT actually good at either task.
To sew lining fabric to itself (such as to close the end of the Polar fleece headband shown in the TECHknitting post of April 25, 2008) the back stitch is a far better choice, and a future post will be show more about the back stitch. To attach lining fabric to hand knitted fabric, such as attaching the Polar fleece headband to the hat in the headband post, the overcast stitch, is a far better choice, and a future post will show the overcast stitch in detail.
The running stitch is a poor choice for hand knitters because, as shown in illustrations 1-4, above, the running stitch "runs" straight through the fabric. Without any reserve "slack," when running stitch is stretched, it is likely to snap. As you can imagine, once the running thread is snapped, the running stitches would quickly unravel. Every time you put on or take off a knitted garment, these non-slack stitches stress, and will eventually break.
Running stitch is really best for only one thing--BASTING (temporarily tacking fabric together before the "real sewing" takes place). After the real sewing, the basting is removed. When used for basting, the weakness of running stitch (it comes out easily) is actually a strength (you WANT basting to come out easily).
Now, as you know, basting today is uncommon because it is time consuming. The modern trend is to skip basting and use pins instead: to pin fabrics together and then do the "real" sewing on the pinned-together fabrics. When you HAND-SEW fabrics together, pinning is a sensible, time saving substitution for basting--hand sewing goes slowly, so pins in the way can readily be re-positioned. However, for MACHINE SEWING, especially for machine sewing bulky hand knits, pinning is a poor substitute for basting.
An example: suppose that you wanted to machine-sew a grosgrain ribbon backing onto a button band. If you were to PIN the button band (green) to the ribbon (red), each pin would make a lump in the fabric, as shown in illustration 5, above. At each lump, your sewing machine foot must climb up, over, and then down the other side. Unless you are an expert machine-sewer, the result is likely to be a wandering line of stitches, with each stitch likely a different length.
However, if you were to BASTE the ribbon (red) behind the button band (green) before machine sewing, the ribbon and the overlying button band would lie smoothly together, as shown in illustration 6, above. Basting makes it more likely that your precious hand knits will emerge from the maw of your sewing machine without incident.Another hand-knitting application for a running stitch basting is before you machine-stitch a steek. If you've ever stabilized a steek using a regular machine foot, you may have experienced the heart-stopping realization that the machine stitching is s-p-r-e-a-d-i-n-g the hand-knit fabric substantially. Although the subsequent knit stitches picked up along the steek edge counteract the stretch, a line of running stitch basting with a sturdy doubled thread BEFORE machine stitching will help prevent this scary tendency to stretch in the first place.
Bottom line: running stitch is best reserved for those occasions when hand knitters need to baste. Running stitch is not suitable for permanent sewing, and especially not on stretchy hand knits.
added on May 5, 2008: A BIG THANK YOU to Honnay, who noted that the direction of sewing in the original version of this post was confusing. Thanks to Honnay's comment, the drawings have now been reversed, and a note about sewing directions added.
This is part 3 of a 5 part series on hand sewing for knitters
Part 1: Starting off
Part 2: Starting off with a doubled thread
part 3: the running stitch (this post)
part 4: the back stitch
part 5: the overcast stitch (best way to attach lining fabric to knitting)
--TECHknitter (You have been reading TECHknitting on: "the running stitch--hand sewing for hand knitters")
Friday, May 2, 2008
Part 2: handsewing for handknitters: starting off with a DOUBLED thread
Yesterday's post (starting a single thread in fabric--first knot) was incomplete, as I realized after it went live. Here is the missing part--starting off with a DOUBLED thread--first knot.
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* * *
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This is part 2 of a 5 part series on hand sewing for knitters
Part 1: Starting off
Part 2: Starting off with a doubled thread (this post)
part 3: the running stitch
part 4: the back stitch
part 5: the overcast stitch (best way to attach lining fabric to knitting)
--TECHknitter (You have been reading TECHknitting on: hand sewing for hand knitters: starting a doubled thread)
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* * *Part 1: Starting off
Part 2: Starting off with a doubled thread (this post)
part 3: the running stitch
part 4: the back stitch
part 5: the overcast stitch (best way to attach lining fabric to knitting)
--TECHknitter (You have been reading TECHknitting on: hand sewing for hand knitters: starting a doubled thread)
Thursday, May 1, 2008
Hand sewing for hand knitters: Starting off
Before TECHknitting turns to the subject of fully lining hats with Polar fleece, there will be an intermission. After publishing the previous post (lining hats, headband style, with Polar fleece) various communications have revealed that there is a certain hesitance among knitters (you know who you are!) to get involved in projects which require hand sewing. Yet, I know from a previous TECHknitting poll, that there ARE lots of handknitters who would like to learn to line knitwear.
Bottom line: for the next several posts, TECHknitting will focus on BASIC HAND SEWING stitches and techniques useful to hand knitters.
Today, we'll start at the very beginning: how to start your thread. The other posts in this series will include the running stitch, the back stitch, the overcast (whip) stitch and how to end your sewing (how to make the final knot). Once these techniques are illustrated, further posts about lining knitting will make more sense, I think.
Bottom line: for the next several posts, TECHknitting will focus on BASIC HAND SEWING stitches and techniques useful to hand knitters.
Today, we'll start at the very beginning: how to start your thread. The other posts in this series will include the running stitch, the back stitch, the overcast (whip) stitch and how to end your sewing (how to make the final knot). Once these techniques are illustrated, further posts about lining knitting will make more sense, I think.
* * *
The very beginning: anchoring your thread in the fabric (the first knot)
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* * *
* * *
* * *
* * *
* * *
* * *
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This is part 1 of a 5 part series on hand sewing for knitters
Part 1: Starting off (this post)
Part 2: Starting off with a doubled thread
part 3: the running stitch
part 4: the back stitch
part 5: the overcast stitch (best way to attach lining fabric to knitting)
--TECHknitter (you have been reading TECHknitting on "basic hand sewing: how to start your thread)
Part 1: Starting off (this post)
Part 2: Starting off with a doubled thread
part 3: the running stitch
part 4: the back stitch
part 5: the overcast stitch (best way to attach lining fabric to knitting)
--TECHknitter (you have been reading TECHknitting on "basic hand sewing: how to start your thread)
Friday, April 25, 2008
How to line a hat, headband style, with Polar fleece
includes 14 illustrations
click any illustration to enlarge
Lining a hat with Polar fleece is a splendid idea for several reasons. First, if the hat is too large, you get a second chance to make it fit--you can ease the hat smaller by sewing in a correctly-sized Polar fleece lining. Second, Polar fleece completely alleviates "itchy forehead" syndrome. Third, for athletes and active types, Polar fleece "wicks" -- it draws moisture away. A hat lined with Polar fleece will remain comfortable long after a woolen hat is sodden. Finally, Polar fleece has many virtues of its own--it's cuddly, sturdy and comes in lots of pretty colors and prints. Oh--it's also very easy to cut and sew and it never, ever, comes unraveled. Further information about Polar fleece can be found here
There are really two methods of lining a hat--the headband method and the fully-lined method. The fully-lined method is warmer, while the headband method is less bulky and suits active folk well--more heat can escape from the crown of a hat lined by the headband method than from a fully lined hat. Today's post shows the headband method, while the full-lining method is described here.
1. (above) The first step is to cut your headband out of Polar fleece yard goods, as shown. The illustration suggests a 4" deep headband, which is generous. Some folks prefer a narrower headband, so experiment and see what suits you. Polar fleece is pretty cheap, so there's no real reason to be sparing with it.
2. (above) Once you've cut your headband strip, the method illustrated here lets you go forward without taking any further measurements--everything from here out is done intuitively, and the tape measure can be put away. For example, the headband strip for the lining is sized by wrapping it around your forehead and pinning it shut. Experience shows that it's best to wear the pinned headband around the house for a little while before you commit to sewing it shut. What seems comfortably snug at first can seem ear-numbingly tight after a quarter of an hour.
3. (above) When you're pinning the headband, arrange matters so the "good" side (green side) is on the inside and the "not so good" side (blue side in these illustrations) is on the outside. Then, once you have the length correct, sew the headband shut across the short end.
4. (above). Trim away the excess fabric at the seam. If you find a standard 3/8 inch seam allowance too bulky, you can cut it closer--Polar fleece does not unravel or fray, so you can get away with narrower seam allowances if you prefer them.
5. (above) Because you want to see the good side of the fabric when you peer inside your hat, you must put the not so good side against the inside of the hat. Therefore, flip the band inside out so the seam allowance (and the not so good side) are on the inside of the band.
6. (above) Flip the hat inside out, also.
7. (above) Slip the headband over the hat. If the hat has a back--a seam, perhaps, or a little knitting error you don't care to display on your forehead--align the seam of the lining with the hat back.
8. (above) Illustrations can take you just so far. For reality, there is nothing like a photo. As you can see from this photo, it often happens that the headband is far, far wider than the hat itself. This is because the hat is likely to "draw in" more than the band, especially if the hat is in a contoured fabric like ribbing. While this may look worrisome, it really isn't a problem, as you can see by skipping ahead: illustrations 12 and 13 are the "after" photos of this same hat.
9. (above) The next step is to pin the hatband inside the hat. Make sure to tuck the seam allowance flaps inside and smooth them down at this point.
10 (above) Here is the how-to trick for pinning a headband evenly into a hat (or should I say--for pinning the HAT evenly inside the HEADBAND!?)
a: holding the hat (gray shape) inside the lining (blue shape), S-T-R-E-T-C-H the hat and the lining with both forefingers into a long shape which can be stretched no further. This automatically centers the hat inside the band. Pin the band to the hat in these two spots--a 4 inch headband may require two pins at each contact point (as shown in illustration 11), a narrower band may require only 1 pin at each contact point. Do you wonder how you can pin in the headband while your hands are inside the hat and band, stretching everything smooth? You can ask someone to help you, of course, but if you are alone, you can take a shortcut by pinning in one contact point BEFORE you start the stretching-out process, then pinch the hat and lining together where you find the second contact should go. Just be sure not to prick yourself with the pre-set pin, which would go right against one of your stretching fingers.
b. along one side, divide the length between the two pins in half by again stretching the hat and the lining until they can stretch no further. Pin this third contact point.
c. along the other side, repeat step b. Four points are now pinned.
d. again stretching between two contact points, set a fifth contact point at the half-way mark between two already-set pins.
e. repeat the "stretching to find the half-way point" 3 more times until a total of 8 contact points are securely pinned down.
f. the perfectionists among us may want to again halve each side length for a total of 16 contact points. I myself wouldn't bother unless the hat was very large, smooth and light--a large man's cap knitted from sock yarn, perhaps.
If the band was far wider than the hat, as in illustration 8, you will find that the band is puckering where it is pinned onto the hat. This is normal, so don't worry.
11. (above) Now we come to the sewing. The trick here is to smooth the hat to the band by stretching as you sew. Use a sharp-pointed needle and polyester sewing thread. I use a single strand, but some folks prefer a double strand. The fact is, polyester sewing thread is very, very strong. So strong, that it could end up cutting the woolen yarn of your hat if you are not careful about tension. You do NOT want to pull the thread up so tight that there is no slack--this is what causes the thread to want to cut the yarn. On the other hand, you also do not want to to sew so loosely that loops of thread lay inside the finished hat. Practice makes perfect in this, as in so many skills.
The best stitch for sewing linings into stretchy woolens is the overcast stitch (also called the whip stitch). This overcast stitch is particularly good because it allows a bit of extra thread to remain in the fabric, allowing for stretching without popping the thread or tearing the knit fabric.
The overcast stitch is also an excellent choice because the thread "tethers" the two pieces of fabric (hat and lining) together, rather than fastening them unmovingly to one another. An analogy from woodworking would be a carpenter attaching two pieces of wood together with short lengths of chain rather than nailing them together. Nailing would be stronger, but the chain more flexible. In the same way, "nailing" the lining onto the hat with a firm stitch like the back stitch would be strong but inflexible, so that the thread might tear as soon as one fabric stretched more than the other.
If you click on illustration 11, it will enlarge enormously, and you can see a closeup.
12. (above) Here is the final result from the inside. As you can see, the excess width of the band, as shown in illustration 8, has been eased to the hat. When the hat is put on, all those puckers disappear, and the hat lies smooth against the head.
13. (above) There is something of a line where the edge of the headband lies. If you don't care for that look, here is a post about a method for fully lining hats with Polar fleece.
14. (above) ta da!
--TECHknitter (You have been reading TECHknitting on: how to line a hat with Polar fleece, in the headband style)
click any illustration to enlarge
Lining a hat with Polar fleece is a splendid idea for several reasons. First, if the hat is too large, you get a second chance to make it fit--you can ease the hat smaller by sewing in a correctly-sized Polar fleece lining. Second, Polar fleece completely alleviates "itchy forehead" syndrome. Third, for athletes and active types, Polar fleece "wicks" -- it draws moisture away. A hat lined with Polar fleece will remain comfortable long after a woolen hat is sodden. Finally, Polar fleece has many virtues of its own--it's cuddly, sturdy and comes in lots of pretty colors and prints. Oh--it's also very easy to cut and sew and it never, ever, comes unraveled. Further information about Polar fleece can be found here
There are really two methods of lining a hat--the headband method and the fully-lined method. The fully-lined method is warmer, while the headband method is less bulky and suits active folk well--more heat can escape from the crown of a hat lined by the headband method than from a fully lined hat. Today's post shows the headband method, while the full-lining method is described here.
* * *
1. (above) The first step is to cut your headband out of Polar fleece yard goods, as shown. The illustration suggests a 4" deep headband, which is generous. Some folks prefer a narrower headband, so experiment and see what suits you. Polar fleece is pretty cheap, so there's no real reason to be sparing with it.
2. (above) Once you've cut your headband strip, the method illustrated here lets you go forward without taking any further measurements--everything from here out is done intuitively, and the tape measure can be put away. For example, the headband strip for the lining is sized by wrapping it around your forehead and pinning it shut. Experience shows that it's best to wear the pinned headband around the house for a little while before you commit to sewing it shut. What seems comfortably snug at first can seem ear-numbingly tight after a quarter of an hour.
3. (above) When you're pinning the headband, arrange matters so the "good" side (green side) is on the inside and the "not so good" side (blue side in these illustrations) is on the outside. Then, once you have the length correct, sew the headband shut across the short end.
4. (above). Trim away the excess fabric at the seam. If you find a standard 3/8 inch seam allowance too bulky, you can cut it closer--Polar fleece does not unravel or fray, so you can get away with narrower seam allowances if you prefer them.
5. (above) Because you want to see the good side of the fabric when you peer inside your hat, you must put the not so good side against the inside of the hat. Therefore, flip the band inside out so the seam allowance (and the not so good side) are on the inside of the band.
6. (above) Flip the hat inside out, also.
7. (above) Slip the headband over the hat. If the hat has a back--a seam, perhaps, or a little knitting error you don't care to display on your forehead--align the seam of the lining with the hat back.
8. (above) Illustrations can take you just so far. For reality, there is nothing like a photo. As you can see from this photo, it often happens that the headband is far, far wider than the hat itself. This is because the hat is likely to "draw in" more than the band, especially if the hat is in a contoured fabric like ribbing. While this may look worrisome, it really isn't a problem, as you can see by skipping ahead: illustrations 12 and 13 are the "after" photos of this same hat.
9. (above) The next step is to pin the hatband inside the hat. Make sure to tuck the seam allowance flaps inside and smooth them down at this point.
10 (above) Here is the how-to trick for pinning a headband evenly into a hat (or should I say--for pinning the HAT evenly inside the HEADBAND!?)a: holding the hat (gray shape) inside the lining (blue shape), S-T-R-E-T-C-H the hat and the lining with both forefingers into a long shape which can be stretched no further. This automatically centers the hat inside the band. Pin the band to the hat in these two spots--a 4 inch headband may require two pins at each contact point (as shown in illustration 11), a narrower band may require only 1 pin at each contact point. Do you wonder how you can pin in the headband while your hands are inside the hat and band, stretching everything smooth? You can ask someone to help you, of course, but if you are alone, you can take a shortcut by pinning in one contact point BEFORE you start the stretching-out process, then pinch the hat and lining together where you find the second contact should go. Just be sure not to prick yourself with the pre-set pin, which would go right against one of your stretching fingers.
b. along one side, divide the length between the two pins in half by again stretching the hat and the lining until they can stretch no further. Pin this third contact point.
c. along the other side, repeat step b. Four points are now pinned.
d. again stretching between two contact points, set a fifth contact point at the half-way mark between two already-set pins.
e. repeat the "stretching to find the half-way point" 3 more times until a total of 8 contact points are securely pinned down.
f. the perfectionists among us may want to again halve each side length for a total of 16 contact points. I myself wouldn't bother unless the hat was very large, smooth and light--a large man's cap knitted from sock yarn, perhaps.
If the band was far wider than the hat, as in illustration 8, you will find that the band is puckering where it is pinned onto the hat. This is normal, so don't worry.
11. (above) Now we come to the sewing. The trick here is to smooth the hat to the band by stretching as you sew. Use a sharp-pointed needle and polyester sewing thread. I use a single strand, but some folks prefer a double strand. The fact is, polyester sewing thread is very, very strong. So strong, that it could end up cutting the woolen yarn of your hat if you are not careful about tension. You do NOT want to pull the thread up so tight that there is no slack--this is what causes the thread to want to cut the yarn. On the other hand, you also do not want to to sew so loosely that loops of thread lay inside the finished hat. Practice makes perfect in this, as in so many skills.The best stitch for sewing linings into stretchy woolens is the overcast stitch (also called the whip stitch). This overcast stitch is particularly good because it allows a bit of extra thread to remain in the fabric, allowing for stretching without popping the thread or tearing the knit fabric.
The overcast stitch is also an excellent choice because the thread "tethers" the two pieces of fabric (hat and lining) together, rather than fastening them unmovingly to one another. An analogy from woodworking would be a carpenter attaching two pieces of wood together with short lengths of chain rather than nailing them together. Nailing would be stronger, but the chain more flexible. In the same way, "nailing" the lining onto the hat with a firm stitch like the back stitch would be strong but inflexible, so that the thread might tear as soon as one fabric stretched more than the other.
If you click on illustration 11, it will enlarge enormously, and you can see a closeup.
- At the hat edge, you'd want to pierce right through a strand of yarn--use the sharp point of the needle to catch two plies of a 4-ply yarn for example.
- At the Polar fleece edge, you want to catch a little dollop of fabric from the fabric face, as illustrated. Using your needle to catch a little dollop from the fabric face forces the cut edge of the fleece to roll to the inside. This little roll hides the cut edge of the fleece from view, making a very lovely transition line between the fleece and the knitting (click to enlarge illustration 12 for a closer view)
12. (above) Here is the final result from the inside. As you can see, the excess width of the band, as shown in illustration 8, has been eased to the hat. When the hat is put on, all those puckers disappear, and the hat lies smooth against the head.
13. (above) There is something of a line where the edge of the headband lies. If you don't care for that look, here is a post about a method for fully lining hats with Polar fleece. 
14. (above) ta da!--TECHknitter (You have been reading TECHknitting on: how to line a hat with Polar fleece, in the headband style)
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