Is this a Tubular Cast off OR Seamed Hem? --->YES!<--- It's the "P-Q" hybrid bind off

I'm supposed to be in the middle of a series about weird new ways of double-knitting, and there is more coming up. But, until recently, the 'flu had hold of me. So, until my wits fully return, here is a fill-in post on a different and simpler subject, a quick and pretty way to bind off  K1, P1 ribbing.

A  new KI, P1 ribbing bind-off (cast-off) for garments 

a: Outside, it's a tubular bind-off. (Red star explained below.)

b: Outside view, closeup. Blue arrow shows where the actual bind-off is on the inside.

c: Inside, it's a seamed hem. 

So...
Question: is this a tubular cast off? A seamed hem? 
Answer: why not both? 
Or as said in Spanish: ¿Por qué no los dos? (Yes, link is little girl in the taco ad.)

    From outside, it's identical to a tubular cast off. Like true tubular cast-off or a blind hem in sewing, external evidence is subtle (photo b, blue arrow).
    From inside, it looks like a seamed hem. 

    Without a purl fold line, it nevertheless turns sharply at the edge and stays turned. 

    It does not flip. 

    Although stretchy, it will not splay out over time. 

    It does not flare.

    It is durable for the life of the garment. 

    It looks really very much better than ordinary chain bind-off, and is a lot more durable. Yet, it really isn't any more difficult and only slightly more time consuming.

Best of all, P-Q is worked with a running yarn. So...

    --> unlike seamed hems, no sewing. 
    --> unlike tubular cast off, no grafting.

    -->There is no cut length of yarn to wear out as the tail travels in-and-out along the top stitches (grafting or sewing). Therefore, no more worn-looking edge worked with fraying yarn, each stitch frizzier than the last. Instead, each stitch is finished using fresh, new yarn. 

As to the name, this hybrid of seamed hem and tubular cast-off is named "P-Q bind off," after that Spanish expression ¿Por Qué No Los Dos? mentioned above, while in English, P-Q stands for "Pretty Quick," another good name because it is both pretty AND quick.

Materials:

• a swatch or project ready for a 1/1 (K1, P1) ribbing. Directions are for projects in the round, but worked-flat adaptation follows.
• a crochet hook
• thin yarn in a matching color. If you have none, here's how to split thin yarn out of thicker. Or, use contrasting color thin yarn for a decorative touch--example below.
• a flexible stitch holder such as a small-gauge circular needle or a contrast color yarn threaded onto a blunt sewing needle

Directions:

Work in 1/1 ribbing in whatever needles and yarn are directed for your project to a few rows short of where you want the actual edge of the bottom / neck band, sleeve, hat brim or whatever. In order for this not to flip, work least 3 rows of K1, P1 ribbing before you start this trick, but there's no upper limit. As you see, that's a long cuff before the bind off, in the intro photo.

Geek note 1: the P-Q bind-off will not flip. However, the k1, p1 ribbing above the hem might flip. This is the  red star * zone on photo a.  The narrow cuff  in that photo has no danger of flipping, but winder, shallower hems do. To prevent hem flip in the red star *  (transition) zone between garment and ribbing, consider the transition-row-trick. 

Step 1: Separate the knits from the purls

Work in ribbing to the round where you want the seam to be on the inside. Place beginning of round (BOR) marker before a knit stitch. 

a. slip the following knit stitch onto a knitting needle.

b. slip the purl stitch to the flexible stitch holder--I use another cable needle, so that the flexible cable becomes the holder. However, you could use yarn or a cord.

Repeat a. and b. until all stitches are separated, the knits on the working needles, the purls on a holder of some kind.

_____

Geek note 2 (shortcut). Instead of separating the knits and purls, it is possible to keep them on the same needle. If you skip separating in step 1 above, then in step 2 below, where you work the knits only, you would simply slide the purls (green) and knit the knits (blue) per below sketch. 

Red represents the tails running between the (blue) knit stitches, while the purl (green) stitches are simply slipped, untwisted, from needle to needle. Red runs in front of the purls, not behind, meaning, bring yarn forward before slipping a purl. In the sketch, a purl is about to be slipped onto the right needle, after which the knit stitch at extreme left of upper row will be worked. 

The downside is, the purls get stretched WAY out of shape by this method. Below is a sketch after only three rounds, showing why the purls would be stretched (yellow highlighting). After six or more rounds, there would be more stretching. 

Experience dictates that putting the purls on a holder is less overall wear on the fabric. However, if separating and then re-joining the stitches is a bridge too far, keeping both on the same needle is an option--a shortcut for sure. 

_____

Step 2: Work the knits only

Working only with the knit stitches on the needles, knit several rounds. six or so is usual, but you can work more. Work loosely. If your fingers will not obey the command to work loosely, then switch to  larger gauge needles so the stitches really do end up larger. At the end of the last round, cut the yarn to a tail of two-three inches. 

Step 3: Turn work inside out

 On hats and bands, this is no problem. However, on cuffs, this requires see-sawing the dpn's back and forth through the fabric. This is something of a pain, but, as you see, it can be done.

Turned inside-out after putting the purls on a holder, and then working several rounds of knits only, but before eliminating the purls.
On this cuff, the cable of a small-gauge circular needle acts as stitch-holder for the purls, while the knits are on the working needles (dpn's in this case).

Step 4: Eliminate the purls 

Slip the BOR marker. Replace the purl stitches onto a small-gauge knitting needle--if you used a cable needle as a stitch holder, this will be as simple as pulling the needle tip into position. Lift the first purl stitch over the first knit stitch. Make sure the purl stitch is lifted over UNTWISTED, and that the knit stitch also remains UNTWISTED. Continue in this way, all the way around. This creates the fold line and reduces the total stitch count by half. At round-end, only knits remain on the needles: each purl was eliminated when you slung it around the neck of its neighboring knit. 

Geek note 3: If you lift the knits over the purls, the hem will not lay as smooth. This is because the purls face in the opposite direction from the fold of the hem, causing the hem to want to stick out at right angles. The contrast is demo'd on a short length of hem (purple hat) in the "gallery of "P-Q" below. 

Step 5: bind off the knits 

Remove the BOR marker. The bind off is worked with the thin yarn from the materials list: usually this is in a matching color, but it can also be in a contrast color (example below).

a. With a crochet hook, draw a loop of this thinner yarn through the first stitch. Leave a tail of several inches. Make sure this loop is LOOSE. There is one loop of yarn around the barrel of the crochet hook, and the first stitch is bound off.

b. Follow this with a chain stitch. This means to draw a new loop of yarn through the loop already around the barrel of the crochet hook. The chain stitch is a spacer which fills in across the gap where the purl used to be. This spacer allows the hem to stretch, so leave this chain-stitch quite LOOSE. 

c. After the chain stitch, again draw a loop of yarn through the next stitch as well as the loop around the barrel of the crochet hook. Another stitch bound off.

    Repeat b.  (spacer chain)  followed by c. (bind off) until all stitches are bound off. 

    This is essentially a chain bind off but worked with a crochet hook, and with a spacer chain added. 

d. At the end of round, retain the loop over the crochet hook. Cut the thin yarn to a 2" tail. Then, work the tail under and around the first chain made. This connects the end of the bind off to its beginning. End by drawing the tail through the loop on needle, pulling 'til the tail pops free. 

Test the stretchy-ness of the cast off. If it is too tight, pull out the crocheted chain, stitch-by-stitch, replacing the stitches on a knitting needle, then bind off again LOOSER. 

Step 6: Finishing 

Settle: The last step is to settle the hem. It may look like the hem is pointing at the sky, but after you "work it down," it will lay smooth. First, stretch the them, working around the garment in sections. Stretch pretty hard, and do it several more times if you chose the Geek Note 2 shortcut method of not separating the stitches. 

Scratch down: Grab the fold of the hem with one hand, and "scratch down" the hem with the other hand, working in sections of 3-5 stitches at a time. I am right handed so I grab the hem with the right hand, and "scratch down" the hem with my left thumbnail. This settles the hem away from the fold, and lays it more smoothly against the inside, 

Tails: Finally, work all tails into the tube you just created.  

Adaptation for working flat

In flat knitting, work to where the stitches are separated, ending so the outside face of the fabric faces you. After this step, the purls remain on their holders, but the knit stitches present as purl stitches when the work is turned. Therefore, work the six-ish "knit" rows as alternating knits (outside face) and purls (inside face) ending so the outside face is next to be worked. Then, proceed as for in-the-round instructions, slinging the purls around the necks of the knits, then finishing via slip-stitched hem. 

Gallery of P-Q

Here is another cuff, much shorter than the first. This one features a contrasting red bind off. This is a swatch for a planned cardigan: I think of using red inside the front bands and collar, plus red buttonholes also, or maybe a red zipper.

Contrast color P-Q

Here is K1, P1 hat, worked top-down, with a matching-color bind off around lower edge. The white line shows where on the outside where the work changes from K1, P1, to all-knit. You can tell something has happened, but not quite what, because the only visible column (the knits) simply continue downwards. (BTW: this same subtle texture change also occurs on real tubular bind off. Again, from the outside, P-Q and real tubular bind off are identical.). 

Outside, the change to all-knit is subtle. Click here to enlarge.

Close-up

Below photo shows the difference between "a"--lifting the purls over the knits (correct) and "b"--lifting the knits over the purls (incorrect). When you do it wrong (lift knits over purls) the hem wants to ruffle. This is because, per geek note 3 above, the purls face the wrong way, so the crocheted bind off stands out at right angles. 

Hat turned inside out

a: hem worked correctly (purls drawn over knits)

b: hem worked incorrectly (knits drawn over purls)--the hem ruffles and stands out

Click here to enlarge.

How does P-Q compare?

Ordinary chain bind off:

P-Q is an immense improvement over ordinary chain bind-off. It is more attractive and way sturdier. Yet, it adds little overall time. In fact, if you think about it, the P-Q actually is a species of chain bind off, just worked inside the hem with a hook, instead of along the edge with knitting needles. Adding a P-Q bind off instead of an ordinary chain bind-off is one of the easiest ways to go from "home-made" to "handmade." 

Tubular bind off:
Is P-Q as good as a real tubular bind off? Honestly--it is 90% of the way there. From the outside, they're identical twins with the same structural advantages: edge of the garment is not edge of the fabric, plus this sort of thick tubular edge wears well while being reasonably stretchy, especially if you practice the length of the spacer chain stitch.

Downsides: per earlier and again below, the seam shows with the cuff folded back (although the seam isn't unattractive IMHO). Also, your fingers will feel a seam when you put the sweater off and on, and your forehead will feel a seam on a hat, whereas with a real tubular bind off, you wouldn't. However, the seam does not feel hard (if worked loose enough!) The purple hat shown earlier does not bother my forehead, although I am old and fussy. 

Long cuff folded back

On the upside, PQ is waaay faster. Plus, the fact that it's worked with a running yarn means no fuzzing and fraying. Finally, I, personally do not love grafting.⎈  Don't love sewing hems, either. 

Bottom line: I DO think P-Q is "nearly, almost, kind-of, just as good" as a real tubular bind off. 

Seamed hems:
Is P-Q as good as other seamed hem tricks? Here I would say 100% yes. The seam will be stretchy if there is correct tension. Commercially knit garments often have a hem- and cuff cast-off which resembles the P-Q (trying to puzzle those out is partly where I got the idea) and these are generally stretchy. 

Fake tubular bind off: 

In 2007, TECHknitting showed easy fake tubular bind off for 1/1 ribbing. That, too, is worked with a running yarn. However, the two techniques shine at different tasks. The easy-fake is worked right along the top edge of an item, not inside the band. That makes it very flat--it adds no bulk. It has some stretch, but not a lot, meaning, it holds its shape well, but might be uncomfortable around a neck or wrist. Its best use is pocket tops--patch pockets on sweaters, and also cardigan bands knit the long way where a flat not-too-stretchy edge is wanted. By contrast, the P-Q bind off is indeed stretchy, and adds a bit of bulk--maybe not as good for a pocket top or along a front-band-edge, but comfortably squishy around a cuff or collar or brim.

 I-cord bind off:

A P-Q bind-off can take plenty of abuse. Yet kids will pull that second mitten on with their sharp little teeth. So, for kids' wear, I-cord bind off (either real or fake) is the sturdier choice because I-cord is applied afterwards. If torn or bitten-through, the I-cord will unravel, but the garment won't run out. 

Comparison conclusion 

The P-Q bind off can be used anywhere you'd like a real tubular bind off OR a sewn hem, and it goes quicker than either of those alternatives. Plus, it looks neater due to being worked with a running yarn: no frizzy fraying yarn runs along the edge as there often is with grafting or sewing. ** To top it off, it isn't any more difficult than ordinary chain bind off, and goes just as fast once the preliminaries are out of the way.

--TK

⎈ Just how much do I not love grafting? Every time I graft, I think "there must be a faster way to do this." So, instead of simply grafting 45 stitches (elapsed time, max 10 minutes) I messed around and test-knit versions of this for dozens of hours instead, even re-doing cuffs which were already grafted. Does that make sense to you? Not me either. Lol. I'll blame the flu. 

** Ultra super-geek note for perfectionism addicts:
 It is possible to work the real tubular in the same way as the PQ: knits only for several rounds, but then GRAFT the knits to the purls instead of slipping the purls over the knits and then slip-stitching the knits. Grafting at the inside bottom of the tube hides the ever-rattier fraying and frizzing grafting yarn. In other words, with this hack, the grafting yarn runs along the inside of the hem instead of along the top edge.